One thing to note if you do this like I just did turn the fan shaft up for an hour before installing as it may no work until you do this as the oil has to run into the right place
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DIY Viscous clutch fan rebuild
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I put a brand new one in mine but I'm not happy with it. Was supposed to be a Davies Craig replacement but had no markings or branding. I reckon it's too tight even after 5000km of run-in and I suspect it is a cheap copy. Pity I through the original away, although it's bearing was fairly sloppy.2016 Mitsubishi NX Pajero GLX
2011 Landrover Freelander II SD4
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Originally posted by chrisfarru View PostI took a few kms before it was running ok and oil moved in the right places. It's well over 50,000 kms now after the rebuild and still running strong.
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Originally posted by Trisome View PostJust did this twice....
The first time somehow the oil vanished, now I couldn't see where 18 ml of 1000 cwt oil went, the seal looked in place the bolts were tight, there were no oil smears. The second time I put some extra sealer around the rubber, and now it seems to be working perfectly.
TrisomeOriginally posted by Coopz View PostI ended up putting in two tubes lol, with one it made no difference however its now a fuel eater so when im home next week im going to drain it fully again and put a single tube in, I think 30ml in the tube? so will put in 20?Originally posted by chrisfarru View Postmine is still running perfectly 80,000 kms later and that's with one full tube. So I would say chuck the whole tube in.
Ok, so Chrisfarru, was your purchase of the Toyota silicon oil a 30ml or 18ml???
Trisome, you only used 18ml? what extra sealer did you use?
Coopz, I am confused, did you use 36ml?
Any updates on how the fans are performing?
Lots of ??? I know! Any help appreciated.02 NM 3.2, Auto, Exceed, I/C and sump guards, L&B 2" lift, 265/75/16 OPAT2.
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I started out with 1 Toyota tube from Penrith Toyota not sure of the amount. It made no difference. Due to timing of trip decided not to waste time and got a new visco clutch for $260. Recently decided with the old visco I may have cleaned it out too well so to test added another Toyota tube, still did not fix the problem, free spinning with ease both cold and when up to temp. Chris's instructions are excelant unfortunately it did not fix mine.
Wonder if water crossings up to the bonnet kill the viscos, hot then suddenly cold under water?Oct 2005 NP Diesel Auto, Roof Racks, Redark Brake controler, Tobar, Rear Suspension Air Bags, Turbo Timer, Oricom UHF030 CB, ARB Bar, Warn 10000 Magnum Winch, Old Man Emu 2" Kit, Bushskinz Cooller, Sump, Transmission and Transfer Bash Plates, Tigerz11 Rear Awning and Net, Tigerz11 side Awning, Dual Batteries, Cooper AT3s, home made steel rack, rear home made Draws, Donaldson 3 micron second fuel filter, ERG blank, all breathers extended and Integra side steps.
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Originally posted by Ocean View PostI started out with 1 Toyota tube from Penrith Toyota not sure of the amount. It made no difference. Due to timing of trip decided not to waste time and got a new visco clutch for $260. Recently decided with the old visco I may have cleaned it out too well so to test added another Toyota tube, still did not fix the problem, free spinning with ease both cold and when up to temp. Chris's instructions are excelant unfortunately it did not fix mine.
Wonder if water crossings up to the bonnet kill the viscos, hot then suddenly cold under water?02 NM 3.2, Auto, Exceed, I/C and sump guards, L&B 2" lift, 265/75/16 OPAT2.
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Originally posted by Ocean View PostI started out with 1 Toyota tube from Penrith Toyota not sure of the amount. It made no difference. Due to timing of trip decided not to waste time and got a new visco clutch for $260. Recently decided with the old visco I may have cleaned it out too well so to test added another Toyota tube, still did not fix the problem, free spinning with ease both cold and when up to temp. Chris's instructions are excelant unfortunately it did not fix mine.
Wonder if water crossings up to the bonnet kill the viscos, hot then suddenly cold under water?02 NM 3.2, Auto, Exceed, I/C and sump guards, L&B 2" lift, 265/75/16 OPAT2.
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Mine is going fine 25,000 kms later, I used Permatex Aviation form a gasket to seal around the edges.
make sure you get that little oil scraper in the right place.
Trisome2007 VRX, Cold Air, HPD Intercooler, 3" Exhaust, Just Autos Tune, Lovels Springs, EFS Shockies.
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Originally posted by RUGGA View PostOcean, did you test the bimetal strip?Oct 2005 NP Diesel Auto, Roof Racks, Redark Brake controler, Tobar, Rear Suspension Air Bags, Turbo Timer, Oricom UHF030 CB, ARB Bar, Warn 10000 Magnum Winch, Old Man Emu 2" Kit, Bushskinz Cooller, Sump, Transmission and Transfer Bash Plates, Tigerz11 Rear Awning and Net, Tigerz11 side Awning, Dual Batteries, Cooper AT3s, home made steel rack, rear home made Draws, Donaldson 3 micron second fuel filter, ERG blank, all breathers extended and Integra side steps.
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