Warning lights issue after visiting auto electrician

[taczak]

Got my '09 VRX taken to auto electrician to rewire 12 pin plug (didn't run 12v fridge on the trailer) and install trailer reverse camera (they wired it to a cigarette lighter). It came back with set of orange lights on the dash (abs, traction control, stability control).

After revisiting the electrician he managed to remove the error code after getting an error message "master cylinder pressure". All systems worked fine for 20kms when the dash lights reappeared. Surprisingly after starting the car several times later there were no lights for some 10 mins of driving (all systems worked fine) and another day when had to get a wheel off it was all good too.

I took the Pajero to Mitsubishi and after a scan been told there is 0V on HBB unit. They checked and confirmed that the wiring to HBB is ok then promptly recommended replacing HBB ($3300) and if no result replacing ECU ($2000).

All fuses checked. Stop lights checked. Battery is ok. I removed a fuse from reverse camera and nothing changed. From what I read HBB caused troubles mainly with an earlier generation of Pajero. Manual says it can indicate low voltage - is there a way electrician (or his apprentice to be more specific) messed up to this extent? Isn't it too much coincidence?

Anyone has been through something similar? Help!

[Keithyv]

I'd be:

-Going back to the (alleged) Auto electricians and getting them to undo whatever they did.
-Staying as far as possible away from the dealer.
-Go somewhere where they know what they are doing.

Seriously, there is 0 volts getting to the HBB and they want replace the HBB?

If you continue down that path you'd be looking at a $10,000 bill as they replace parts and possibly still not resolve the issue.

[nj swb]

Got my '09 VRX taken to auto electrician to rewire 12 pin plug (didn't run 12v fridge on the trailer) and install trailer reverse camera (they wired it to a cigarette lighter). It came back with set of orange lights on the dash (abs, traction control, stability control).

After revisiting the electrician he managed to remove the error code after getting an error message "master cylinder pressure". All systems worked fine for 20kms when the dash lights reappeared. Surprisingly after starting the car several times later there were no lights for some 10 mins of driving (all systems worked fine) and another day when had to get a wheel off it was all good too.

I took the Pajero to Mitsubishi and after a scan been told there is 0V on HBB unit. They checked and confirmed that the wiring to HBB is ok then promptly recommended replacing HBB ($3300) and if no result replacing ECU ($2000).

All fuses checked. Stop lights checked. Battery is ok. I removed a fuse from reverse camera and nothing changed. From what I read HBB caused troubles mainly with an earlier generation of Pajero. Manual says it can indicate low voltage - is there a way electrician (or his apprentice to be more specific) messed up to this extent? Isn't it too much coincidence?

Anyone has been through something similar? Help!

All fuses? Including under the bonnet?

Do your hazard lights work?

What is the charging voltage at the battery (with the engine above idle)?

Edit: it seems you have an intermittent problem, which could be a dodgy fuse. Start with replacing Fuse 18 (should be 15A) in the relay box under the bonnet.

[craka]

As Keithy Said, I'd be staying well clear of the dealer.



The ASC warning light can come on when battery gets low and a couple others from memory, it also comes on after the battery has been disconnected. However once reconnected and vehicle driven in a straight line for what I remember a 100metres of so, it will recalibrate the stablility control and the ASC light will go out.


I'm having trouble understaning what existed before and what existed after ie from

Got my '09 VRX taken to auto electrician to rewire 12 pin plug (didn't run 12v fridge on the trailer)

Could you describe a little more of what you had before and what you have now?

[taczak]

All fuses? Including under the bonnet?

Do your hazard lights work?

What is the charging voltage at the battery (with the engine above idle)?

Thanks for reply. I am gonna replace that fuse and spend time checking other with multimeter.

Hazard lights are good.
Charging at idle was 13.5V I will check it at higher revs

[taczak]

I'm having trouble understaning what existed before and what existed after ie from

Could you describe a little more of what you had before and what you have now?

I've just got different brand trailer and it required different wire configuration in 12 pin plug to run a trailer's 12V fridge.

Trailer has got reverse camera installed so I asked auto electrician to install it in Pajero.

Should be two simple jobs where not much can go wrong. However both jobs failed. Faulty camera set has been blamed. Also fridge does not work with electrician stating that it will work when the fridge is pre-cooled using 240V.

[Keithyv]

Also fridge does not work with electrician stating that it will work when the fridge is pre-cooled using 240V.

You sure these guys are actually qualified auto sparkies?

[Hatto]

Faulty camera set has been blamed. Also fridge does not work with electrician stating that it will work when the fridge is pre-cooled using 240V.

I'd definitely be finding another auto sparky!
I'm certainly not one but if there is 0 volts at the HBB then this would indicate an issue with its power supply... aka, fuse.
Definitely stay away from that dealer (all of them in my opinion). If their starting point is replacing the HBB then all they are after is your money, not a fix for your problem. And the ECU??? Surely not.
I'd follow the advice of getting the auto sparky to undo EVERYTHING he did. Then if the problem persists, have the codes read. Post the code/s here and see who can help from here. I'd trust advice from this forum more than my dealer by a long shot!
Once that is sorted then ask on here about what exactly you want to do with your wiring. Both those jobs sound quite simple.
Good luck

[old Jack]

Find and print out the correct circuit diagrams from the online service manual.

http://faq.out-club.ru/download/pajero_iv/maintenance/Service_Manual_2008_2013/2013/index_M1.htm

Often there are multiple fuses that supply power to any one systems so all should be checked.

Connections on components and their plugs are very delicate so do not measure on the connecting side of the plugs or on any pins. Always measure from the back of the plug/wire side.

OJ.

[erad]

There has been some discussion about no voltage to the HBB. If there is no power to the HBB, there will be no brakes and you will soon know about that. the Dealer is talking through his fundamental orifice, and and the auto sparky doesn't seem to be much better.

[taczak]

Definitely stay away from that dealer (all of them in my opinion). I'd trust advice from this forum more than my dealer by a long shot!

Exactly right Hatto! This dealer is full of

I must have been desperate going there as I don't have many tools/knowledge or anyone South of Melbourne who could help.

Find and print out the correct circuit diagrams from the online service manual.

http://faq.out-club.ru/download/pajero_iv/maintenance/Service_Manual_2008_2013/2013/index_M1.htm

Thanks OJ. Today I will try to work out the wiring diagrams.

There has been some discussion about no voltage to the HBB. If there is no power to the HBB, there will be no brakes and you will soon know about that. the Dealer is talking through his fundamental orifice, and and the auto sparky doesn't seem to be much better.

I think I read that topic where the brakes failed within 2 KMs.
I've been assured by the service that the hydraulic braking system works fine and it's ok to drive apart from the electronic safety features not working. It's been 2 weeks and several hundred kms since the issue started.

[nj swb]

You sure these guys are actually qualified auto sparkies?

Certainly doesn't sound like it. I'd say they're taking money under false pretences, bordering on fraud.

As for Mitsubishi dealers, we certainly see too much evidence that incompetence is far too common. It's probably grossly unfair to all the entirely competent work that goes unreported here, but it also amazes me how little MMA appears to care about the damage being done to the brand reputation.

Back to the OP: I feel for your pain, but I don't believe there is an easy solution for you. You've wasted your money at the first place, and at the dealer, and you're probably going to need to spend more money to get this sorted.

I wish you the best of luck.

[taczak]

Going through the fuses I found this very well cooked that looks like one of the 12 pin plug or trailer electronic brake unit. Back to the "auto electrician" on Monday.

The question is (and I don't think he will be able to answer it) how did it affect abs/etc error code?

EDIT:
All other fuses are good. ABS pump motor relays seems to be good too.

[nj swb]

That's not a factory fuse - any idea what it's supplying?

I've had my share of fuse holders melting like that under the bonnet, most recently last month. That style of holder simply can't handle large loads in the hot environment - a fuse at it's rated limit gets quite hot, and those holders don't dissipate that heat at all well, less well when it's hot outside the holder. Based on my experience with them, I'd say they shouldn't be used for a continuous load fused above 20A - except maybe spotlights, which would normally be used in the cool of night.

I severely doubt that fuse is the cause of your ABS / ETC problem, and I suspect returning to your "auto electrician" will only waste your time and money.

[taczak]

That's not a factory fuse - any idea what it's supplying?

These fuses were added years ago by different sparkie who wired 12 pin plug and electric brakes unit.

What I've noticed sparkie who wired trailer's reverse camera went through the firewall in the same place as wiring mentioned above. Maybe he drilled through other wires or shortcuted something while connecting 12 pin