You are probably all correct on that. However, my NP used to creak like a bastard with that bolt loose whilst towing, well lubed or not. I just tighten it when unhitched and leave it. Its not like "all that weight" is "on the area of a bolt head! ". Most of the weight will be in the receiver, and a partial amount on the bolt. The bolt will flare and you may struggle to get it out with a mushroomed head. Put a decent chamfer on it and you wont have any issues extracting it if it gets a little mushroomed. And you wont have any creak or clunk when towing.
Below Nav Bar
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Creaking sound from within the rear of cabin when towing
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MY16 NX GLX5 with just a few bits added. MY14 D-max spacecab, also with a few bits added.
My Journeys
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Originally posted by sharkcaver View PostYou are probably all correct on that. However, my NP used to creak like a bastard with that bolt loose whilst towing, well lubed or not. I just tighten it when unhitched and leave it. Its not like "all that weight" is "on the area of a bolt head! ". Most of the weight will be in the receiver, and a partial amount on the bolt. The bolt will flare and you may struggle to get it out with a mushroomed head. Put a decent chamfer on it and you wont have any issues extracting it if it gets a little mushroomed. And you wont have any creak or clunk when towing.
I still struggle with it Sharkcaver. When tightened, there is no movement and the van and vehicle feel like they are braking as one. When the bolt is loose and there is slack between the tongue and the pin, you get the clunk of impact. This involves the narrow part of the tongue with the locating holes slamming into the narrow sections of the locating pin. It has always seemed to me that this places higher loads on that narrow section, rather than evenly spreading the impact on the tow-bar receiver.
I am not arguing with the experts and will follow their recommendation - it just does not seem logical. I must be getting old and "stupider"!
I think Halls rang me, but I missed the call. I will ring them tomorrowRegards
Rory
2010 NT DID Auto Platinum. ARB Bar; 12000lb winch; Light-force 240 spotlights; Bushskinz plates; dual battery with upgraded wiring; Diff breathers; ECU re-tune; 3" exhaust Toyo AT11's; Ultra-gauge and OBD11 dongle; Garmin 52LM; Icom UHF; Craig Davies transmission cooler with fan; raised EHD Lovells coils; Mann & Hummel Catch Can; Bilstein B6's; Firestone airbags; Tekonsha P3 controller; towball capacity 300KG; GVM 3110KG. Sunland Patriot SE van with a few other mods.
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I have mine as tight as it will go to stop noises, to the point where I think it needs two anti rattle bolts, the one underneath and one to the side as it 'pivots' on the 1 tight underside bolt.1994 NJ SWB, 3.5 Manual, 285/75/16 Deegan 38s MT, 25mm body lift, Twin ARB air lockers, XD9000 winch, custom bar.
1991 NH LWB, 3.9 V8, trayback, solid front axle, Toyota hi mount winch
2011 NT GLX DiD, 3.2 Manual, 285/65/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W, SPV EGR, Lovells SD rear, HD front, Bilsteins, Custom underbody protection, Safari Snorkel, JTig intercooler and loads of zip ties in the dash...
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Rang Halls this morning re missed call. They confirmed that the bolt is there only as an anti-rattle mechanism that can be locked when not towing. But (there is always a but), the view was expressed that the anti-rattle lock nut is a bit redundant. The reason given for not locking it whilst towing, was so that stripping of the thread on the lock nut/bolt did not occur.Regards
Rory
2010 NT DID Auto Platinum. ARB Bar; 12000lb winch; Light-force 240 spotlights; Bushskinz plates; dual battery with upgraded wiring; Diff breathers; ECU re-tune; 3" exhaust Toyo AT11's; Ultra-gauge and OBD11 dongle; Garmin 52LM; Icom UHF; Craig Davies transmission cooler with fan; raised EHD Lovells coils; Mann & Hummel Catch Can; Bilstein B6's; Firestone airbags; Tekonsha P3 controller; towball capacity 300KG; GVM 3110KG. Sunland Patriot SE van with a few other mods.
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+1 Allins' towbars also told me to leave the bolt loose- I always kept it tight- Allins gave me this advice after redrilling my old bolt out as it had 'fused' whilst being screwed tight and under load while towing.
In respect of the noise, Jared01, have you tried spraying some lubricant/silicone onto your airbags? I have to spray mine everynow and again to silence the occasional squeaks when they dry out and get dusty.
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Thanks for all of the feedback.
I have not sprayed the airbags with any lube but will look at that.
After ready the comments, I think it may be related to the door.
I will try a few things and report back as it always may help another person if they have the same issue.2019 Pajero Sport GLS | Factory Alloy Bullbar | BFGoodrich T/A KO2 265/60/18 Tyres | Hayman Reese Towbar | Rhino Roof Racks | Uniden 8060S and AT970BK Twin Aerial | Safari Snorkel
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I towed a 2.6ton boat from Adelaide to Perth - experienced the creaking noise from the towbar assembly - systematically lobed one thing at a time per day and found the hitch was the culprit. Replaced the anti rattle bolt with a Grade 8 bolt and Nut - Almost fixed - I also think possibly due to the mono chassis style there is flex in there more than a ladder type chassis. I just turned the tunes up - fixed
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While caravaning over the last few weeks, I also, noticed a creak/groan from the rear of the vehicle.
Tried the anti rattle locking nut, tight/ not tight (The the jury is still out)
On my return home I checked the tow bar and tightened the nuts. All were fine except one tucked right up high behind the exhaust pipe. Difficult to get a spanner to however finally did and managed to tighten nearly half a turn. It may be early day, but on a short trip with the van to adelaide and back, 300Km round trip, NO CREAKING and this on the road the RAA rated second worst in South Australia, so a good testing ground for the van with plenty of rocking and rolling.
So check all nuts and bolts
Cheers
TerryNH Pajero 1993 3.0 V6 GLS with ARB Bullbar, HD Suspension 2" lift, Roof rack, cargo barrier, rear drawers, onboard air compressor, Mickey Thompson MTZ tyres, Hella Spot lights, UHF radio, GPS
ALSO NT 30th Anniversary Model 3.2 DID Auto.(Accessory list needs to start again). Mickey Thompson ATZ P3 Tyres, ARB old man emu 50mm Suspension lift, SPV module and Catch Can,Bushskinz plates, King Brown 3" Exhaust turbo back, Flappy Paddles, Auto Mate Torque Lock up Kit.
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Again thanks for all the feedback and I will post when I resolve the issue.
I will be towing again in about 2 weeks.
Having a look on the back of the car when I open the door, I can see the door lock/latch then below that a rubber piece almost in the shape of the letter D that a metal piece on the door covers over when closed. As shown below in the picture
I suspect the door is rubbing on the rubber which I have now sprayed with silicon spray and hope to see if it has resolved the issue2019 Pajero Sport GLS | Factory Alloy Bullbar | BFGoodrich T/A KO2 265/60/18 Tyres | Hayman Reese Towbar | Rhino Roof Racks | Uniden 8060S and AT970BK Twin Aerial | Safari Snorkel
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I have the same problem with the d shaped rubber causing creaking issues. Previous posts on the forum show some people have cut small pieces of marine carpet and glued to rubber. I tried this but didn't last too long as the carpet moved. Have tried rubber grease but again only lasts a short time, around 1 week before i have to reapply..
Well known issue on a pajero bud.2014 VW Touareg V6 diesel
Previously
88 NF Exe SWB 2.6 manual
92 NH Gls LWB 3.0 auto
92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
99 Landcruiser Gxl 4.5 manual with all the fruit
95 NJ Gls SWB 3.0 auto
08 NS Vrx SWB 3.2 auto
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squark
Just wondered if anyone has checked there shock absorbers ?
If you have the ARB ones with the plastic shields they squark when they are dusty as the cover slides down the tube !
Regards.2013 Pajero GLX-R auto Diesel.
Tough dog 40mm raised suspension,ARB shocks,MCC bull bar,electric winch,bash plates,draws , engel fridge,dual batteries,air comp,water tank and electric pump,inverter,DC/DC charger,air bags, converter lock up system,diff/traction control modification.
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Originally posted by aussieintas View PostI have the same problem with the d shaped rubber causing creaking issues. Previous posts on the forum show some people have cut small pieces of marine carpet and glued to rubber. I tried this but didn't last too long as the carpet moved. Have tried rubber grease but again only lasts a short time, around 1 week before i have to reapply..
Well known issue on a pajero bud.
I used two pieces of Velcro with the sticky backing (the side with the loops), and attached them to the rubber D-block. Have not had to change them yet and they have really reduced the vertical movement of the door and the noise.Cheap as Bu**ery to cut and fit.Regards
Rory
2010 NT DID Auto Platinum. ARB Bar; 12000lb winch; Light-force 240 spotlights; Bushskinz plates; dual battery with upgraded wiring; Diff breathers; ECU re-tune; 3" exhaust Toyo AT11's; Ultra-gauge and OBD11 dongle; Garmin 52LM; Icom UHF; Craig Davies transmission cooler with fan; raised EHD Lovells coils; Mann & Hummel Catch Can; Bilstein B6's; Firestone airbags; Tekonsha P3 controller; towball capacity 300KG; GVM 3110KG. Sunland Patriot SE van with a few other mods.
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x2NW 3.2 Diesel Auto Platinum, Cool Silver, Redarc Remote Head Electric Brake Controller, Mitsi towbar, GME 3400 UHF, full window tint, home made rear drawers, bushskinz intercooler guard, custom alloy sump and trans sump guards, rhino racks, arb awning, UltraGauge, Lovells HD coils and Bilsteins, BFG KO2's, Automate TCC Lockup kit, Hikeit throttle controller
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