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  • dreamerman
    Valued Member
    • Sep 2009
    • 982
    • Sydney

    Where is the snorkel?

    Was browsing the superhighway and this picture had me stumped. I just could not spot the snorkel. Maybe a special breathing mod that is mounted on elsewhere not visible in the pic? If truly this 4x4 does not have a snorkel, then I think the driver is very brave indeed. I have only been to easy 4x4ing so have no experience in water crossing.
    Attached Files
    03/19 MY18 Pajero NX GLX Graphite | KUMHO AT51 265/65R17 | Ultragauge MX v1.4 | AEM GPS Speedometer | Yakima Platform on OCAM Backbone | OEM Tow Bar | KAON Internal Rear Roof Shelf | ARB Smartbar
  • lostscrew
    Junior Member
    • Jul 2019
    • 13
    • Bunbury

    #2
    It could have a water bra fitted. As it would assist in creating a bow wave that would reduce the amount of water ingress into the engine bay. Disconnected the fan and plenty of crc spray. Still a risky venture. On my older triton ( 1998) model I had a pod air filter mounted in the engine bay that was higher than the air inlet. I would only do a water crossing as a last resort under those circumstances. I had a Nissan patrol with all the correct gear snorkel diff breathers etc. did a water crossing in the Bungle Bungles and still damaged the fan blades. Thank god for RACWA plus road side assistance while the car was being repaired they paid for a car hire and a weeks accommodation in Broome.

    Comment

    • Alex86
      Valued Member
      • Jul 2007
      • 2416
      • Here and there

      #3
      Most of that just looks like splashing from entry it seems. Maybe a little fast creating it to splash up rather than form a wave but the main water level seems not excessively deep; maybe wheel height. (Deeper than I want to go thru that kinda crud though!!)

      I’ve taken my Pajs through water without a snorkel- but known beforehand to be well below intake height.

      Water bra/blind also helps create a wave out the front. Don’t see one in the original pic though.
      '99 NL Escape, Manual - Bullbar, roofrack, cargo barrier, D697LT, Tough Dogs, dual batts, rear draws, Narva 225 HID, UHF, led bar etc
      Towing: 4.8m Savage Centurion half-cab w/75hp Mariner

      '99 NL GLS SWB, Auto - Bullbar, D697LT, spotties, UHF, Koni adjustables & King springs.

      Wanted: Adventure.

      Comment

      • old Jack
        Regular
        • Jun 2011
        • 11604
        • Adelaide, South Australia.

        #4
        Having a snorkel does not make your 4wd into an invincible water crossing machine!

        The sellers of snorkels have been pedalling this myth for years and it is seen by many as the must have accessory, that is necessary for water crossings.

        Myth 1: Snorkels are water tight, wrong.
        Most aftermarket and factory fit snorkels are not water tight, they leak at the joints!

        Myth 2 : Snorkels give you more power due the Ram Air effect so power is boosted.
        This is only slightly true on a normally aspirated engine, on a turbo charged engine a snorkel adds no extra power.

        Myth 3 : A snorkel gives your engine cleaner air.
        This is only true is the factory air inlet is located in the inner wheel arch like the Pajero Sport and MQ onwards Triton. The forward facing air intake on the Gen 3 & Gen 4 Pajero, PC/PC Challenger and pre MQ Trition is located behind the front bonnet lip and bonnet seal, so the air intake is only about 600mm lower than a snorkel, the air cleanliness is about the same!
        However fitting a cyclonic pre cleaner to a snorkel will remove larger particles and extend the life of your air filter. The air filter is what gives your engine clean air!
        If you want to extend the life of your air filter, do not drive continuosly in people's dust!
        Driving in close convoy formation may make for good photos and video footage, it is what we are all exposed to through all media sources.
        I prefer to be able to see the road/track ahead and the scenery, and not be driving in dust and smelling exhaust fumes!

        4wds regularly die in water crossings, some are fitted with snorkels and some are not. Most common cause is the drowning of the electrics and electronics in the cabin area. This occurs when the water comes up over the bonnet and enters the cabin via the fresh air inlets at the base of the windscreen. This creates a waterfall down the back of the dash an onto critical electrical and electronic components. The under bonnet electrical and electronics are splash proof but not immersion proof.

        Fitting a water blind will create an air void in the engine bay and this is enough air for the engine to continue to run for a short time with a forward facing air inlet. A blind also prevents water from being forced through the air channels of the heat exchangers (radiator, AC condensor, intercooler and ATF cooler). This is particularly important if the water is dirty, as dirty water is forced through the air channels it leaves a slit deposit and this quickly build up, restricting the airflow through the heat exchangers and this will cause over heating. Best also to tie up the viscous fan blades so they do not move during the water crossing.

        Modern 4wds are well sealed and an empty 4wd can start to float in as little as 300mm to 400mm of water, this is why driving through flowing water is particularly dangerous, once you are floating you lose traction and the ability to stay on a desired course.
        Various studies in Australia have documented this.
        How much floodwater does it take to carry a car away? A world-first experiment shows how even slow-moving water packs a powerful punch.

        For over 60 years we’ve tackled complex challenges in coastal, environmental and eco-engineering; hydrology; water resources; hydraulics and groundwater.


        Also need to consider extended breathers for diffs, gearboxes and transfer case as water can easily enter these components during wate crossings.

        A correctly fitted blind and correct driving technique will give you the best chance of getting through a long deep water crossing. A fully sealed snorkel will give you some extra insurance but it is not the "one thing" that enables you to just go charging into deep water without proper thought and preparation.

        OJ.
        Last edited by old Jack; 29-09-19, 07:46 PM.
        2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
        MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

        Comment

        • Jayctee
          Member
          • Mar 2015
          • 130
          • Brisbane

          #5
          Great info OJ.
          Is there any way to test that the air getting to the air filter is coming from the snorkel "mouth" as intended, or just through bad joints and poor seals ??
          SOLD: MY14 PC LS Auto Challenger, Airtec snorkel, GME TX3100 UHF, RV360 TPMS, Hema HN7, Provent 200 CC, Torque-Pro, Thunder Weekender battery box, Redarc BCDC 1225D charger.
          SOLD 1997 NK GLX 3.5 Auto

          Comment

          • Drewan
            Senior Member
            • Apr 2017
            • 284
            • Adelaide

            #6
            Just stick a plastic bag over the top of the snorkel engine stops snorkel sealed.
            Over capitalized NK.I'm running out of things to add to it it died , now a SWB NJ with all the good stuff from the NK on it .

            Comment

            • NFT5
              Valued Member
              • Apr 2011
              • 1580
              • Canberra

              #7
              Another great post, OJ.


              I'll add one more to your list:


              Myth 4: The airbox needs to fill before you do damage to your engine.


              Not true. I destroyed a V6 in my old MK Triton with just water flicked up by the fan towards the (unsnorkelled) air intake. Bent conrods, valves and destroyed bearings amongst other things. Looking in the airbox you would have trouble knowing that there had been any water in there at all. Bottom line? It doesn't take much.


              The water was not deep, only up to about the bottom of the bullbar, but I lost traction and didn't have the sense to turn the engine off.
              Chris

              Comment

              • old Jack
                Regular
                • Jun 2011
                • 11604
                • Adelaide, South Australia.

                #8
                Originally posted by NFT5 View Post
                Another great post, OJ.

                I'll add one more to your list:

                Myth 4: The airbox needs to fill before you do damage to your engine.

                Not true. I destroyed a V6 in my old MK Triton with just water flicked up by the fan towards the (unsnorkelled) air intake. Bent conrods, valves and destroyed bearings amongst other things. Looking in the airbox you would have trouble knowing that there had been any water in there at all. Bottom line? It doesn't take much.

                The water was not deep, only up to about the bottom of the bullbar, but I lost traction and didn't have the sense to turn the engine off.
                Correct, it doesn't take a lot of water to damage an engine because water is not compressible.
                A recent post of what happened to a Challenger that was fitted with a snorkel.
                See post 23 and 24 for the summary.


                Another thread worth having a read of;
                Swaggie I have been told that the Asian fuels, our beloved Fuel Companies buy, is just utter crap, and that the tolerances in Common Rail fuel pumps are very miniscule. Hence the huge caot for repaire, and the need for good quality filters. My next door Neighbor, got shit fuel from somewhere...

                OJ.
                Last edited by old Jack; 30-09-19, 03:36 AM.
                2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
                MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

                Comment

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