EGR again

[draganlada]

HI guys
I've just picked up my NS did from local mechanic who diagnosed faulty EGR valve (which I already knew thanks to this great forum) and,what stunned me,he said EGR cooler needs to be replaced with new one due to clogging and insufficient flow I have never heard of such case before,not on this forum.
Did anyone here have to clean or replace their EGR cooler,what are your opinion on this one?
BTW my pajero is stock standard,no mods to EGR or DPF
Cheers !

P.S. Quote is $ 2000- using genuine parts,EGR cooler + valve

[aussieintas]

For a few cents you can block the egr with a resistor and be done with it Dont know if you've seen the thread below, its what i did to mine once I cleaned intake.

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=46390

[Seigried]

I have seen a few threads on the south african and uk forums about failed egr coolers. So it does happen thought from what I have read its uncommon here in aus.

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

[draganlada]

Decided to save few bucks and took EGR cooler off and cleaned it myself.Wanted to finish the job this weekend and went to dealer and bought EGR valve for $ 550- because did not have time to wait for part of eBay. Put everything back together and got myself Xtool dongle to erase fault code and to monitor EGR operation.Everything worked fine for about 70-ish km of city driving till scanner started shoving Commanded EGR 0.00%Everything else is fine no fault codes showing or pending only EGR does not move from zero.Engine shuts down normally,no run on for 1 sec like before with faulty EGR valve.
Is it possible that there is something other faulty what "kills" EGR solenoids on my carHelp please

P.S.Please dont tell me to do $ 1- resistor mod ,that will not fix my cars problem and I like to keep it standard and road worthy.

[Ian H]

It's just a thought but is it possible that the cooler is still bung and not cooling the exhaust gas enough, so the EGR shuts down to prevent the extra hot gasses going back in?

[draganlada]

Thanks for reply Ian
After I have cleaned inside of cooler looked nice clean and shiny like new,I pumped water through it and it flew really good.
On whole EGR system,the cooler,the connection pipes and the valve,I did not see any sensor which can measure temperature,pressure,or flow of exhaust gases

I do not know if new EGR valve has to be initialized,relearned or something like that,with MUT lll

[aussieintas]

Just had a look at the online workshop manual, doesnt say anything about a relearn. Link below, section 17.

http://faq.out-club.ru/download/pajero_iv/maintenance/Service_Manual_2008_2013/2008_ge/index_M1.htm

[draganlada]

thanks aussieintas

[draganlada]

Good news,I've found out why EGR was shoving 0.00%
Started the car,scanner was shoving EGR 0.00% but CAT temperature went over 400'C in just few hundred meters after startup (normally sits around 300'C all the time ) and started rising towards 600 very quickly.That put smile beck on my face,I knew what it meant,DPF started its burn process and that is why EGR was shut ,as soon as CAT temperature came back to 300-ish,EGR started to show its normal figures
I remembered reading somewhere on this forum EGR valve is shut during DPF burn cycle and this prove it correct.
Now to find some honest mechanic to clean my inlet manifold and doesn't want an arm and a leg in return

[aussieintas]

Well thats a bit of good news bud.

[starjunk]

Good news,I've found out why EGR was shoving 0.00%
Started the car,scanner was shoving EGR 0.00% but CAT temperature went over 400'C in just few hundred meters after startup (normally sits around 300'C all the time ) and started rising towards 600 very quickly.That put smile beck on my face,I knew what it meant,DPF started its burn process and that is why EGR was shut ,as soon as CAT temperature came back to 300-ish,EGR started to show its normal figures
I remembered reading somewhere on this forum EGR valve is shut during DPF burn cycle and this prove it correct.
Now to find some honest mechanic to clean my inlet manifold and doesn't want an arm and a leg in return

Honest mechanic is the key. You want yo be sure they're going to do a thorough job, and not just squirt a spraycan at the inlet. Doing the job properly takes time, and time must be paid for. 5-7 hours labour would be normal I'd say, and most good mechanics charge 100-150 per hour these days in Sydney.
If you don't know anyone, I can put you in touch with the guy that did a fantastic job on mine. Just pm me if interested.

[colect149]

HI guys
I've just picked up my NS did from local mechanic who diagnosed faulty EGR valve (which I already knew thanks to this great forum) and,what stunned me,he said EGR cooler needs to be replaced with new one due to clogging and insufficient flow I have never heard of such case before,not on this forum.
Did anyone here have to clean or replace their EGR cooler,what are your opinion on this one?
BTW my pajero is stock standard,no mods to EGR or DPF
Cheers !

P.S. Quote is $ 2000- using genuine parts,EGR cooler + valve

Looking at the Munji lead with the resistor inserted, Looks easy to take it out and the seller has a lot of confidence in it. At 129.00 it looks a good deal. only disadvantage to the DIY resistor is you cannot play with the resistor value. Any thoughts ?

[jimako]

Looking at the Munji lead with the resistor inserted, Looks easy to take it out and the seller has a lot of confidence in it. At 129.00 it looks a good deal. only disadvantage to the DIY resistor is you cannot play with the resistor value. Any thoughts ?

You can use a variable resistor for the DIY, it wont cost much more than a standard resistor.

[Kingbrown]

You can use a variable resistor for the DIY, it wont cost much more than a standard resistor.

That's true, you can. But be aware of a higher risk of problems with a potentiometer.
Think of old radios that have a 'scratchy' volume control.
Better to experiment and then put in a fixed value imho.

[colect149]

Fitted the Munji Egr delete lead.

Ordered from Qld on Sunday, arrived today. Now fitted. I have been mucking around with cars for more than 60 years, I currently have a 1937 Austin 7 Sports and a 1967 MGB, I have just sold a 4.0 litre MGBGT and have always done my own maintenance so I reckon I have a rather good "feel" for how happy a motor is. Of course it still may be imagination but to me the motor seems much happier and I think economy may have improved. Crankcase breathers going into the inlet have been around for years with petrol engines and never been a problem. I subscribe to the theory that someone on here explained the hot recirculated exhaust gases interacting with the oil mist from the crankcase were the cause of the carbon build up. So hopefully I can at least stall the carbon build up and if one believes the BP Ultimate guff it may even reduce.
The next goal is to fit a DPF pipe but hopefully it can wait till early next year.