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  • Muz
    Junior Member
    • Jul 2018
    • 12
    • Coffs Harbour

    Basic service advice

    I'm a recent purchaser of a 2012 PB LS Challenger. I'm enjoying the car a fair bit but I'm horrified at the cost of servicing the bloody thing compared to the Commodore I had. Last Service was circa $750 for just the basics.

    Was charged over $280 for the air filter, oil filter and fuel filter. (All Ryco.). A quick check online and I could've bought all 3 Ryco filters for about $140. Also got charged a $115 for 6.5 litres of oil. Another quick look on the interweb and it's $65 for 6 litres of Penrites 5W30 at Supercheap.

    Anyway, being a Terry Tightarse I'm going to try and cut costs a bit by changing the oil and filters out myself next time if it's not a nightmare to do.

    So to that end could someone please let me know how hard it is to change the oil out and swap out the air filter, oil filter and fuel filter or where I might be able to find a manual.

    Great forum by the way. Loads of good information.

    Thanks in advance.
  • old Jack
    Regular
    • Jun 2011
    • 11621
    • Adelaide, South Australia.

    #2
    Online Service Manual link, only covers to 2011 but no changes through to 2015 so ok to use;


    Manual is in 3 sections, Service, Technical and Body, take some time to look around it as navigation can be a bit confusing, if you cannot find what you are looking for just post a question.

    If you are out of warranty then no reason not to do minor services yourself if you are able and want to, just stick to the schedule in the Owners Handbook. Not hard to do no real tricks except on fuel filter it is correctly sealed in the housing and you prime the system after the filter change.


    OJ.
    2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
    MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

    Comment

    • Muz
      Junior Member
      • Jul 2018
      • 12
      • Coffs Harbour

      #3
      Thanks OJ for the links. I'll check that out and I'll see how hard it is to do. Over the years I've gotten lazy and stopped doing them but when the services were reasonably cheap it didn't bother me so much.

      I noticed on the receipt he's noted that timing belt is due to be done. Something I'll get a professional to do. What's the consensus here on buying gear online and asking them to put it in.

      Something like this. https://www.alliedbearings.com.au/ti...enger-pb-pc-tr or this. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TIMING-B...-/202062889746

      Can it be done or is it considered poor form?

      I thought I might tell the fella it came with the car when I bought it.

      Comment

      • Kingbrown
        Valued Member
        • Apr 2012
        • 1779
        • Port Augusta - SA

        #4
        With the oil filter I find it easiest to access from the driver's side wheel arch. Remove the rubber flap and you can see the filter.

        Clean the area around the filter and it's mounting prior to removal.

        To minimise oil spillage when removing the oil filter, cover it completely in an old shopping bag or a 2L milk container with the top cut off.

        A strap wrench or claw type tool makes it easy to loosen/tighten the filter if your grip isn't strong. There isn't much space for working near the oil filter.

        Be careful not to damage any parts surrounding the oil filter (eg oil pressure switch, wiring, vacuum tubing).
        2012 PB Challenger LS Manual

        Comment

        • Muz
          Junior Member
          • Jul 2018
          • 12
          • Coffs Harbour

          #5
          Originally posted by Kingbrown View Post
          With the oil filter I find it easiest to access from the driver's side wheel arch. Remove the rubber flap and you can see the filter.

          Clean the area around the filter and it's mounting prior to removal.

          To minimise oil spillage when removing the oil filter, cover it completely in an old shopping bag or a 2L milk container with the top cut off.

          A strap wrench or claw type tool makes it easy to loosen/tighten the filter if your grip isn't strong. There isn't much space for working near the oil filter.

          Be careful not to damage any parts surrounding the oil filter (eg oil pressure switch, wiring, vacuum tubing).
          Thanks Kingbrown.

          Comment

          • littleriver
            Valued Member
            • Jan 2013
            • 3339
            • Queensland

            #6
            Go online to unifliters.. $79 includes fleet guard engine oil filter.. Fuel filter and air filter...

            Preferably use a 5w 40 full syn oil.. The only thing I buy at mitsubishi is the sump plug washer for a couple of bucks, (is a crush washer).. 40nm torque by memory
            ...
            ..
            Last edited by littleriver; 10-12-18, 02:48 PM.
            2012 PB Challenger LS (Manual) Safari Snorkel, OZtec shocks front & rear with King Springs (lift 2 inch) , 22 inch light bar on ECB Nudge bar, roof racks & basket, Bridgestone Duelers 697 LT A/T (116S), Uniden Dash cam, Oricom 2 way radio 80 channel, Ipod connected via glove box usb, Waeco cf50, Garmin gps (with topo), Opticoat + paint protection, Nilrust proofing, Roosystems Ecu Remap

            Comment

            • Muz
              Junior Member
              • Jul 2018
              • 12
              • Coffs Harbour

              #7
              Even better. Cheers.

              Comment

              • Jayctee
                Member
                • Mar 2015
                • 130
                • Brisbane

                #8
                Originally posted by Kingbrown View Post
                With the oil filter I find it easiest to access from the driver's side wheel arch. Remove the rubber flap and you can see the filter.

                Clean the area around the filter and it's mounting prior to removal.

                To minimise oil spillage when removing the oil filter, cover it completely in an old shopping bag or a 2L milk container with the top cut off.

                A strap wrench or claw type tool makes it easy to loosen/tighten the filter if your grip isn't strong. There isn't much space for working near the oil filter.

                Be careful not to damage any parts surrounding the oil filter (eg oil pressure switch, wiring, vacuum tubing).
                Love your work KB - after my last service, you should send that to all MM dealers. I was told that the oil spill happened when they removed the old filter. There was excess oil in the spongey insulation material above the sump guards.
                Last edited by Jayctee; 20-03-19, 08:46 PM.
                SOLD: MY14 PC LS Auto Challenger, Airtec snorkel, GME TX3100 UHF, RV360 TPMS, Hema HN7, Provent 200 CC, Torque-Pro, Thunder Weekender battery box, Redarc BCDC 1225D charger.
                SOLD 1997 NK GLX 3.5 Auto

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