Good question disco stu. What models have clutch that are interchangeable. I have heavy duty clutch for NH only done 15,000km and sitting loose in back of car (gearbox dead and car going to heaven).
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Clutch-worth replacing?
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2010 PB Challenger. Kings KCRR23 and 55H, sliders, front bar, warn winch, light force HID, 90L aux tank donated from NH Paj.
1992 NH GLX, 2.5L TD. Tough Dog lift 2", Alpine Engineering IFS mod kit, DieselGas, Piranha dual battery, ARB bar with Warn M8000, Outlander roof rack & boat rollers, 10ft tinny with 6hp, GME TX4000 UHF & Electophone SSB CB, custom fridge slide & false floor, window tint & Airflow snorkel.
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Originally posted by tomwithannl View PostI am sorry to disagree with DHULA but I would not get the pressure plate machined. By taking metal off the face you are increasing the the clamped gap which decreases the clamping force. That's why it is a replacement part. Just deglaze it with some emery tape.
Get the flywheel machined by all means if it is deeply grooved.
Tom
Unless it is heavily discolored from excess slippage, or heat cracks, which it probably isn't because you have not let the clutch get that bad it has started slipping.
Off topic but in relation to clutch slip - bought a little V6 Mazda Astina a few years ago for a bit of a project car, and hopefully replace the dear wife's 400,000km Laser.
Mazda had no drive. Expected it to have a broken gear box or diff, but when I pulled trans out I found it had basically no clutch. Nothing left of the clutch plate but a metal disc, and a bit of fluff in the bell housing. Not a scaric of friction material left on clutch plate.PCOV Member 1107.
Daily driver NX GLX
Semi retired NL GLS 3.5 (no airbags) in almost prestine condition to replace NJ.
Virtually fully retired NJ 2.8TD
Previously - NB LWB, NA SWB.
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Cheap fix for you at least Pharb-nice!
I just can't understand why the clutches for these are so damn expensive. Well over twice the price of an equivelent clutch that is 25mm smaller diameter. I just can't understand why. I've sent myself crazy trying to compare parts available in the US and checked cars that the clutch is said to fit from australian sellers, but they all seem to be different. Don't want to get stuck with a useless clutch so I guess I'm going to have to just pay the price and get a proper clutch disk here. At these prices I'm going to have to stay with the original pressure plate
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yeah I went through this at christmas - was on the freeway and out of nowhere as I went to pass a slow car my clutch let go and I slowed down (if I was honest the extra load the supercharger puts on it probably has something to do with it but I am going to play dumb)
I was blown away a the price on ebay of a clutch kit ---- and then because I needed it in less than a week I decided I had to get the mechanic we use at work to do it ----- his price for a HD clutch kit was $250 more than an excedy one on ebay.... plus nearly a grand to fit it.... he dropped the price to $1500 because we send a lot of work his way.... and he was looking after me1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
*** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
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Originally posted by Quinno View PostGood question disco stu. What models have clutch that are interchangeable. I have heavy duty clutch for NH only done 15,000km and sitting loose in back of car (gearbox dead and car going to heaven).
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Good to know I'm not alone Stu
From the info I've found about my clutch it would seem you're correct erad. It would also appear that to go bigger for the diesel also saves you a fair wad of cash-it's just the one for the 3.5l petrol that seems to be so expensive from what I've seen
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Disco Stu: Looking back at your first post, it seems as if you have at least 1 mm of facing to go before the recommended replacement. Only you know how you treat the clutch, so you can make an assessment if it worth replacing at this stage. Certainly if you get 300000+ km fro the clutch, the anti-chatter springs are more likely to fail before the facing wears out. I had 330000 km from the clutch in my wife's TM Magna, and the anti-chatter springs (they were ceramic I think) fell out. I stil would have had at least 0.5 mm of facing left. If. however, you only get 40000 km from a clutch, then replace it because it is a nasty job to do later.
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Funny you say that-we owned a gen 1 when we first got married 16 years ago. Wife was driving home and all of a sudden couldn't release the clutch when pressing pedal down. Turned out one of the springs had popped out and fallen in behind stopping it being able to disengage
My son is on his L's and will be learning manual-he's gonna wear that clutch out real fast!!
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