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As others have said, there is no ECU for the diff lock.
Plug it all into the existing wiring loom, and grab the dif lock switch from the wreck and plug that in also. perform the dif lock + TC mod and good to go.
I also consider this the best option as others have said due to retaining the dash light. I don't think ive ever personally read anything about one breaking doesn't seem to be common at all and I wouldn't worry about it. I use mine quite often in rough rocking on 2 wheels conditions and never had an issue with it
2011 MY12 NW Pajero GL (White)
Factory Rear Diff lock | Modded Traction Control | Hankook RT03 MT LT265/70/17 | Uniden 7760nb UHF | Opposite Lock 3 Loop steel bar with fog lights |Runva EXW12000 | Bushskinz plates and sliders |Ultimate Suspension true 50mm Lift (above factory trim)
Hi Slo78
Where abouts is the location of the plug? Can't really see it in the picture.
It's below the cigarette plug inside the lower dash. To get to this you will have to remove the cup holders, gear shift surround, glovebox, then lower front dash (cigarette lighter and card holder piece).
From memory there are 2 computers there. The plug you ar after is the right hadn't plug in the top computer. I did try and remove the grey wire from the plug using a super small screwdriver but after 15 min conceded and just cut the grey wire.
I then ran the wire from the plug to a switch, then from the switch to an earth point. When the switch is turned on the it earths out this wire tricking the computer into thinking the factory diff lock is engaged and disabling all electronic aids (abs, EBD, matt, TC).
It's below the cigarette plug inside the lower dash. To get to this you will have to remove the cup holders, gear shift surround, glovebox, then lower front dash (cigarette lighter and card holder piece).
From memory there are 2 computers there. The plug you ar after is the right hadn't plug in the top computer. I did try and remove the grey wire from the plug using a super small screwdriver but after 15 min conceded and just cut the grey wire.
I then ran the wire from the plug to a switch, then from the switch to an earth point. When the switch is turned on the it earths out this wire tricking the computer into thinking the factory diff lock is engaged and disabling all electronic aids (abs, EBD, matt, TC).
I am missing something here.
Why run the wire to the switch, then out of the switch to a earth?
Why not just wire the switch, SPST, into the grey wire so the grey wire is either earthed or not?
Hi all,
My NW did not come with a factory diff lock. So just a question . If i fitted a ARB lock to the rear do i have to do this mod or will it cut the traction control off itself.
Tangles
I can only assume that the TC is disabled with the rear diff lock on in case you have to turn in something soft and it detects the change in the outer wheel speed and tries to grab it with the brake, effectively binding the axle?
Like sandypaj says, it’s a killer on the dunes, it can get you more stuck than unstuck at times.... on a crest you could get stuck bad and if you can’t self recover, you could be in a very dangerous situation.
I’ve been pulling the ABS relay, as even in 4HLc its never fully disabled. All 4HLc helps as it limits the amount of power thrown forward when scrabbling up a climb, reducing TC interference. You have to adapt to the 50/50 split though, lift off oversteer rather than power oversteer for tightening up lines.
I get the rear diff lock plus TC idea though... if only it knew only to brake the front wheels then.
Overall it lets the car down to an extent as I see badly driven Nissans and Toyotas go places mostly on the strength of their electronics, as opposed to the skills of their drivers. Make Pajero drivers better though. [emoji1]
I usually drive with diff lock and traction control on in difficult terrain, and it certainly better. In sandy stuff I use TC off and sometimes with the diff lockon, sometimes off. Still not sure which is best. Lowering tyre pressure has the biggest effect.
2013 NW GLX-RFactory Locker, TC mod,Dual Battery, 240V inverter, Anderson Plug, Fire Extinguisher.GME TX3500 UHF Radio, MM Alloy Bar, ORU 12000lb Winch,EGR mod, Fancy wheels, 33" Pirelli ATR Tyres, LRA Aux tank, Custom bash plates & Rock sliders, Ultra Gauge, ARB Compressor, LED Light bar, little mods around the cabin. Kings Std Ratecoils & Ultimate Shocks, Firestone HP airbags, Airteck Snorkel, Hema 6. Towing: Starcraft outback
Diff lock is on a seperate circuit and would need a different mod.
2013 NW GLX-RFactory Locker, TC mod,Dual Battery, 240V inverter, Anderson Plug, Fire Extinguisher.GME TX3500 UHF Radio, MM Alloy Bar, ORU 12000lb Winch,EGR mod, Fancy wheels, 33" Pirelli ATR Tyres, LRA Aux tank, Custom bash plates & Rock sliders, Ultra Gauge, ARB Compressor, LED Light bar, little mods around the cabin. Kings Std Ratecoils & Ultimate Shocks, Firestone HP airbags, Airteck Snorkel, Hema 6. Towing: Starcraft outback
I usually drive with diff lock and traction control on in difficult terrain, and it certainly better. In sandy stuff I use TC off and sometimes with the diff lockon, sometimes off. Still not sure which is best. Lowering tyre pressure has the biggest effect.
Doesn't engaging diff lock deactivate TC anyway? (in fact ABS, ASC and TC are all off in this case?)
2014 NW MY14 3.2 DID GLX-R Auto. Champagne in colour!
MM Lockup mate. King KCRS-35 rear springs. Monroe Gas Magnum TDT rear shocks. 3M color stable tint all round. Spare wheel lift kit. 'Dynamat' in all doors and rear cargo area. Pioneer AVH-Z5150BT Head Unit. Upgraded Speakers. Rear (2nd row) USB outlet. Factory nudge bar with LED light bar. Provent catch can. LED interior lights. Rear cargo area twin Andersons and Merit socket. Anderson plug in rear bumper. 6 channel TPMS.
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