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  • rgrubby
    Valued Member
    • Apr 2018
    • 627
    • Wellington - NZ

    #16
    Originally posted by pronvit View Post
    That would be perfect, but I doubt it's legal here. Don't know yet, for now probably will leave it, two screws is not too hard to undo when needed. Or maybe will move higher or lower.
    Not sure why, as I understand it "Plates must be in an upright position to display clearly every letter, figure and distinguishing mark" (from a google). As long as its down while on the road it should be fine. I might ask around about that first.


    Originally posted by pronvit View Post
    That was quick. Did it come from AU?
    Yes I ordered it Monday, it was sent Tuesday, arrived today, very happy with that from across the ditch


    Originally posted by pronvit View Post

    Btw, there was one thing I had to do to the mount. The part number 11 "plate with nut", I had to shorten the wide end of it a bit, otherwise it didn't fit. Spend some time trying to understand whether I was trying to put in in the right place or not. So when it doesn't fit where you think it should go just remember it probably just needs cutting too (which is actually strange since everything else fits perfectly, so let me know if you find a way without cutting).
    Thanks for that info, I'll remember that when I get to that point.
    2007 NS Pajero GLS Diesel. Factory rear diff lock. Custom rear bumper. Custom side steps. Kaon and ASFIR bash plates. Cooper Evolution MT tyres. Couple of CB radios. UltraGauge. Provent 200. Traction control diff lock mod. ARB Comercial bull bar with custom brush bars and Domin8r X 12,000lb winch. Dobinsons and Kings raised springs and shocks. TJM snorkel

    Comment

    • pronvit
      Member
      • Mar 2019
      • 90
      • New Zealand

      #17
      Originally posted by rgrubby View Post
      Not sure why, as I understand it "Plates must be in an upright position to display clearly every letter, figure and distinguishing mark" (from a google). As long as its down while on the road it should be fine. I might ask around about that first.
      Maybe I remember it wrong or rules from some other country...


      By the way, do people install isolator switches or have winch connected all the time? Domin8r comes with a switch (although not sure how good and easy to use it is), but mine doesn't have.
      2008 Pajero NS V6. Factory rear diff lock. OME suspension. Ironman underbody protection. Rhino-Rack Pioneer Platform. ASFIR hidden winch mount, Ridge Ryder 12000lbs winch.

      2006 LR Discovery 3 TDV6.

      Comment

      • old Jack
        Regular
        • Jun 2011
        • 11621
        • Adelaide, South Australia.

        #18
        Originally posted by pronvit View Post
        By the way, do people install isolator switches or have winch connected all the time? Domin8r comes with a switch (although not sure how good and easy to use it is), but mine doesn't have.
        There is are several good reasons for having an isolation switch under the bonnet.
        It means that your winch is not "live" all the time so if you have an accident then there are not live wires, that are capable of carrying large currents, that could short out and start a fire in the event of the collision. Also many years ago there was a spate of incidents where some low life would unspool you winch cable, pass it over the roof of the vehicle and attach it to the towbar, engage the winch, then short the controller terminals out so the winch wound the cable in resulting in serious damage to the vehicle.

        OJ.
        2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
        MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

        Comment

        • pronvit
          Member
          • Mar 2019
          • 90
          • New Zealand

          #19
          Originally posted by old Jack View Post
          There is are several good reasons for having an isolation switch under the bonnet.
          Sure. Safety reasons sound obvious, but for some reason I don't remember hearing people talking about or using a switch in any relevant videos, but maybe I just didn't pay attention. Also if I need to open the bonnet, I can manually connect winch cable to a battery terminal with a wing nut (at least for now). I'm interested what people usually do from a usability point of view.


          rgrubby, have you already thought where to place the solenoid box?
          Last edited by pronvit; 24-05-19, 09:42 AM.
          2008 Pajero NS V6. Factory rear diff lock. OME suspension. Ironman underbody protection. Rhino-Rack Pioneer Platform. ASFIR hidden winch mount, Ridge Ryder 12000lbs winch.

          2006 LR Discovery 3 TDV6.

          Comment

          • rgrubby
            Valued Member
            • Apr 2018
            • 627
            • Wellington - NZ

            #20
            Originally posted by pronvit View Post
            Sure. Safety reasons sound obvious, but for some reason I don't remember hearing people talking about or using a switch in any relevant videos, but maybe I just didn't pay attention. Also if I need to open the bonnet, I can manually connect winch cable to a battery terminal with a wing nut (at lease for now). I'm interested what people usually do from a usability point of view.


            rgrubby, have you already thought where to place the solenoid box?

            From what I have seen, people usually have an isolator switch near the battery and turn it on when needed or expect it to be needed.
            My mount just arrived so now I need to find time to pull the bumper off and fit it. Not sure on solenoid location, the cables on my winch aren't long either. I will probably just try and fit it somewhere out of the way and extend the controller socket to a more accessible spot.
            When I start I'll post some photos on my build thread
            2007 NS Pajero GLS Diesel. Factory rear diff lock. Custom rear bumper. Custom side steps. Kaon and ASFIR bash plates. Cooper Evolution MT tyres. Couple of CB radios. UltraGauge. Provent 200. Traction control diff lock mod. ARB Comercial bull bar with custom brush bars and Domin8r X 12,000lb winch. Dobinsons and Kings raised springs and shocks. TJM snorkel

            Comment

            • NJV6
              Valued Member
              • Sep 2010
              • 606
              • New Zealand

              #21
              I would not run an isolating switch unless it is an expensive high amp one. Most simply do not carry enough current and are just another weak link in your system.

              Either disconnect the main lead to the solinoid box at the battery or As I have done, put a small switch to turn the solinoid box on.

              If you do wish to run a main switch make sure it is minimum 400amp continuous rated.
              1994 NJ SWB, 3.5 Manual, 285/75/16 Deegan 38s MT, 25mm body lift, Twin ARB air lockers, XD9000 winch, custom bar.
              1991 NH LWB, 3.9 V8, trayback, solid front axle, Toyota hi mount winch
              2011 NT GLX DiD, 3.2 Manual, 285/65/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W, SPV EGR, Lovells SD rear, HD front, Bilsteins, Custom underbody protection, Safari Snorkel, JTig intercooler and loads of zip ties in the dash...

              Comment

              • old Jack
                Regular
                • Jun 2011
                • 11621
                • Adelaide, South Australia.

                #23
                Another alternative to a high amp isolation switch is to mount the solenoids under the bonnet and have a switched remote/hand controller circuit. This requires longer heavy duty cables from the solenoids to the winch motor but theyare only live when the winch is in use.

                OJ.
                2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
                MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

                Comment

                • pronvit
                  Member
                  • Mar 2019
                  • 90
                  • New Zealand

                  #24
                  Yeah, all the switches I've seen here in shops so far are rated 300A continuous.

                  In our case (a hidden winch mount), solenoids will be inside anyway (and the controller socket placed somewhere accessible from outside using the included extension cable). Since so far I can't find a good place for the solenoids near the winch, maybe mount them right next to the battery? Will this cause any problems, given I'll use proper heavy duty cables between solenoids and winch?
                  2008 Pajero NS V6. Factory rear diff lock. OME suspension. Ironman underbody protection. Rhino-Rack Pioneer Platform. ASFIR hidden winch mount, Ridge Ryder 12000lbs winch.

                  2006 LR Discovery 3 TDV6.

                  Comment

                  • old Jack
                    Regular
                    • Jun 2011
                    • 11621
                    • Adelaide, South Australia.

                    #25
                    Originally posted by pronvit View Post
                    Yeah, all the switches I've seen here in shops so far are rated 300A continuous.

                    In our case (a hidden winch mount), solenoids will be inside anyway (and the controller socket placed somewhere accessible from outside using the included extension cable). Since so far I can't find a good place for the solenoids near the winch, maybe mount them right next to the battery? Will this cause any problems, given I'll use proper heavy duty cables between solenoids and winch?
                    Only potential issue you have is exposed live connections on the solenoid terminals but with appropriate insulating boots this should not be a problem.

                    OJ.
                    2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
                    MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

                    Comment

                    • Pwoffey
                      Valued Member
                      • Jul 2013
                      • 980
                      • Adelaide

                      #26
                      I have one of these:



                      which is rated 500A continuous. I presume they might also be available at a Jaycar store in NZ?
                      BY13/MY14 Pajero NW GLX Auto, Cooper ST Maxx, factory towbar, Drifta drawers, SmartBar, Airtec snorkel, Koni Raid 90 front, Dobinson IMLrear shocks with Kings 34-HD springs front, 35-EHD rear, Brown Davis i/c, sump and transmission bash plates, Piranha diff breathers, Fuel Manager pre-filter, LRA 81L auxiliary fuel tank, Piranha steel battery tray, Sherpa 9500 lb winch, HPD catch can, LockUp Mate, Harrop front e-locker, DBA T3 rotors and Xtreme pads, Mark's 4WD reduction gears

                      Comment

                      • pronvit
                        Member
                        • Mar 2019
                        • 90
                        • New Zealand

                        #27
                        Originally posted by old Jack View Post
                        Only potential issue you have is exposed live connections on the solenoid terminals but with appropriate insulating boots this should not be a problem.
                        They aren't exposed, they're in the solenoids box, so can't be touched, if that's what you mean.
                        2008 Pajero NS V6. Factory rear diff lock. OME suspension. Ironman underbody protection. Rhino-Rack Pioneer Platform. ASFIR hidden winch mount, Ridge Ryder 12000lbs winch.

                        2006 LR Discovery 3 TDV6.

                        Comment

                        • pronvit
                          Member
                          • Mar 2019
                          • 90
                          • New Zealand

                          #28
                          Originally posted by Pwoffey View Post
                          I have one of these:



                          which is rated 500A continuous. I presume they might also be available at a Jaycar store in NZ?
                          Yep, they are, thanks ($80 though, outraging!). Should also be easy to mount using the included bracket.

                          Btw, what I can't understand - winch power cables are 2 AWG, which is only about 150A. How come?
                          Last edited by pronvit; 24-05-19, 11:43 PM.
                          2008 Pajero NS V6. Factory rear diff lock. OME suspension. Ironman underbody protection. Rhino-Rack Pioneer Platform. ASFIR hidden winch mount, Ridge Ryder 12000lbs winch.

                          2006 LR Discovery 3 TDV6.

                          Comment

                          • nj swb
                            Resident
                            • Jun 2007
                            • 7333
                            • Adelaide

                            #29
                            Originally posted by pronvit View Post
                            Yep, they are, thanks ($80 though, outraging!). Should also be easy to mount using the included bracket.

                            Btw, what I can't understand - winch power cables are 2 AWG, which is only about 150A. How come?
                            Damn good question!

                            Peak vs sustained.

                            Your isolating switch is a (comparatively) high resistance point, so heat will build up quickly, even under short duration loads. But the switch can probably handle higher temperatures than the cable, and the "point" nature means that any heat will dissipate relatively easily.

                            Cables are rated (quite conservatively) for continuous use under well defined conditions. Use of 2 AWG cables for a winch relies on many "mitigating" factors, primarily being lower ambient temperature and "intermittent" load.

                            For average recreational use, where the winch is used for maybe a minute or two then rested for longer, 2 AWG is more than adequate. For more aggressive use, such as Winch Challenge, I suspect something significantly larger than 2 AWG would be used.

                            Question: what is the current rating of your winch solenoids? Is the rating for continuous use, or intermittent?
                            NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

                            Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

                            Scorpro Explorer Box

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                            • Pajshomoneroguntero
                              Valued Member
                              • Jul 2013
                              • 1438
                              • Sydney

                              #30
                              There are isolators available the problem is to get one at a decent price you’ll need to look overseas.
                              I’ll have to look up which supplier it was but I sourced a 500A continuous isolator from the States which included a reasonable shipping offer.

                              I found this post in my build thread: https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...&postcount=105
                              NX GLS MY16 Auto: MM Towbar | Spare Lift Kit | Cooper ST MAXX 265/65R17 | SPVi Module mk3.1 | Autosafe Half Cargo Barrier | Torque Pro App | Donaldson 3um 2ndry Fuel Filter | Diff Breathers | GME4500 UHF | Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform | Roley's Rear Bash Plate | Bushskinz Underbody Protection | Airtec Snorkel | Onboard Compressor | Awning | ARB Deluxe Bar | Lightbar | Sherpa4x4 Winch | Bushskinz Sidesteps | Masten TPMS

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