Coolant change interval 3 or 4 years?

[_jp_]

My NW has had Blue SLL coolant since new. It was changed at 45000km (3 years) as per the book. It is now due again at 90000km (6 years).

It is now out of warranty so it will not be done at the dealership.

My understanding is that the NX intervals are 60000km (4 years) using the same coolant in the same motor. There is talk in other threads that the factory started using blue SLL in the NW but did not update the service schedule in the manual to reflect its longer service life.

At this stage I'd like to keep using the genuine SLL coolant rather than change to another brand.

So my question is, should I change it as per the book (now), or push it out to 4 year intervals?

[erad]

I have a tame mechanic (a good friend) who I use for annual roadworthy certificates and any major work on my cars. The rest I will do myself as long as I am physically able. My friendly mechanic has testing gizmos - one which analyses the brake fluid for moisture and also another device which checks the coolant to assess its anti-corrosion properties. I live in a very dry area and hence brake fluid degradation is not such an issue as it is in coastal areas. As for the coolant, I suspect that the climate where you live has no influence on life of the coolant. If you can find a tame mechanic with these tools you could save yourself some money by extending its life.


For what it is worth, I believe that the blue coolant is rated for at least 4 years anyway. That is what the local dealer used in my NW Pajero as well.

[benckj]

As indicated above the ethylene glycol doesn’t wear out but corrosion resistance does. I add a corrosion inhibitor to my system every couple of years to bring the PH in check. Not sure what’s available for your ‘type’ of blue coolant but may help.

[Muzza]

I just chnaged my SLL blue coolant last week, the vehicle is 5 years, i stuck with mitsubishi coolant $110 per 5 lt,
The radiator drain was about 5lt, I then disconnected one of the rear heater hoses near the transmission and drained another 2lt, then using a small amount of commpressed air in the heater line got another 1.5lt out, so all up 8.5lt t out of the 10.7 ( handbook figure).

[_jp_]

I just chnaged my SLL blue coolant last week, the vehicle is 5 years, i stuck with mitsubishi coolant $110 per 5 lt,
The radiator drain was about 5lt, I then disconnected one of the rear heater hoses near the transmission and drained another 2lt, then using a small amount of commpressed air in the heater line got another 1.5lt out, so all up 8.5lt t out of the 10.7 ( handbook figure).

Thanks Muzza. I was hoping to get away with 2x 5L containers and not have to worry about buying the 0.7L extra which sounds like I will.

[green troll]

I used the nulon blue after ringing the tech line. 7 year interval and is suitable to mix with genuine if some still remains in system.

[Scooby]

Just changed the NW over to Nulon blue also.
Isn’t that a fun job with rear AC heater!
But 8 years or 500000kms of happy driving before I need to do that again apparently.

[traktor]

I was in the same position once, eventually I flushed coolant to Blue Nulon, then I figured out from SDS it contains controversial chemical 2-ethylhexanoate which may not be good for silicon and some rubber gaskets

https://www.nulon.com.au/specifications/coolant/mitsubishi/mitsubishi-super-long-life-premium-coolant-blue-part-mz313950

I flushed again to penrite oem blue coolant

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/applications/car-4wd/coolants/blue-oem-coolant-concentrate

if I could start over again I would do partial coolant change every 2-3 years using genuine Mitsubishi coolant, just drain from the radiator (4-5 liters) and then refill very slowly. That is what dealer will do if you ask to change coolant. It is an easy job to do, just be patient when filling up radiator very slow to avoid air locks.

This way you can avoid draining coolant from engine block and heater hoses under the car as you doing so will create air locks which you need to get rid off.
Changing coolant type requires full flush which is time consuming and laborious process with high possibility of creating air locks which can cause trouble.

When flushing second time I used OEMTOOLS 24444 5 Adapters Cooling System Refiller Kit, it creates vacuum but requires compressor.

So, to summarise if you have genuine coolant in the system and don't want to bother with full flush just buy 5L of the same genuine coolant, drain coolant from radiator and refill it. Depending on when the last change was done (if done by a dealer it would be partial change), repeat procedure in 1-3 year later.

When you refill radiator more likely it will accept a little bit less then drained, make car nose up and top up coolant to radiator when engine is running massaging upper radiator hose. The radiator should not be hot of course when doing it.

[Scooby]

I was in the same position once, eventually I flushed coolant to Blue Nulon, then I figured out from SDS it contains controversial chemical 2-ethylhexanoate which may not be good for silicon and some rubber gaskets

https://www.nulon.com.au/specifications/coolant/mitsubishi/mitsubishi-super-long-life-premium-coolant-blue-part-mz313950

I flushed again to penrite oem blue coolant

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/applications/car-4wd/coolants/blue-oem-coolant-concentrate

if I could start over again I would do partial coolant change every 2-3 years using genuine Mitsubishi coolant, just drain from the radiator (4-5 liters) and then refill very slowly. That is what dealer will do if you ask to change coolant. It is an easy job to do, just be patient when filling up radiator very slow to avoid air locks.

This way you can avoid draining coolant from engine block and heater hoses under the car as you doing so will create air locks which you need to get rid off.
Changing coolant type requires full flush which is time consuming and laborious process with high possibility of creating air locks which can cause trouble.

When flushing second time I used OEMTOOLS 24444 5 Adapters Cooling System Refiller Kit, it creates vacuum but requires compressor.

So, to summarise if you have genuine coolant in the system and don't want to bother with full flush just buy 5L of the same genuine coolant, drain coolant from radiator and refill it. Depending on when the last change was done (if done by a dealer it would be partial change), repeat procedure in 1-3 year later.

When you refill radiator more likely it will accept a little bit less then drained, make car nose up and top up coolant to radiator when engine is running massaging upper radiator hose. The radiator should not be hot of course when doing it.

I chose the Nulon Blue because it says it is compatible with the Mitsubishi Super Long Life Coolant that was in my NW. Can be used to top up even.

I changed from the genuine coolant because of the ridiculous cost.

Has anyone using Nulon blue coolant had trouble yet?

Does all Nulon Coolant have this problem?

What part of the SDS says it contains 2-ethylhexanoate?

[traktor]

SDS can be found here https://www.nulon.com.au/products/cooling-systems/blue-premium-long-life-coolant-100-percent-concentrate,
section 3 of SDS shows Chemical composition.
I tested bits of plastic and rubber in Blue Nulon concentrate for a few month, I did not notice any swelling, but still not sure about long term effect.

According to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze
DEX-COOL specifically has caused controversy. Litigation has linked it with intake manifold gasket failures in General Motors' (GM's) 3.1L and 3.4L engines, and with other failures in 3.8L and 4.3L engines. One of the anti-corrosion components presented as sodium or potassium 2-ethylhexanoate and ethylhexanoic acid is incompatible with nylon 6,6 and silicone rubber, and is a known plasticizer.

[Scooby]

Thanks for that, I was tapping on the larger Product Bulletin square thinking it was the SDS, not the smaller SDS square.

This problem goes back to 2007 so surely Nulon wouldn’t be using something that could cause these problems?

I may have to send them an email to confirm, to get something in writing.

Otherwise it will be another flush and Penrite.

[traktor]

Penrite was asked about 2-EHA in their coolant, they did not give straightforward answer

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/forums/topic/14/Coolant%20&%20Anti%20Freeze/thread/991/Does%20your%20blue%20Anti%20freeze%20contaim%202%20Ethylhexyl%20acrylate?page=1

"
... I am not in a position to discuss formulation information about any of our products but as a general comment I understand that 2-Ethylhexyl acrylate is used in the production of adhesives and polymerises readily and so is unlikely to find application in formulated anti-freeze products. ..."

Penrite OEM Blue coolant is Glysantin G30 which is manufactured by BASF (Germany) , I could not find composition information on their web site https://www.glysantin.de/en/glysantinr-g30r-concentrate.

By the way Nulon pink coolant https://www.nulon.com.au/products/co...nt-concentrate SDS does not mention 2-ethylhexanoate.

So, when using after market coolants we can not be 100% sure, this subject is very convoluted.

When a car is still on warranty the best bet is to use MM genuine coolant and know exactly what was filled in factory, as at least there 2 types of MM coolant greenish one and more recent bluish one. The problem with genuine coolant is price - quite expensive to do full flush (10.6L with rear heater).

[BruceandBobbi]

When a car is still on warranty the best bet is to use MM genuine coolant and know exactly what was filled in factory, as at least there 2 types of MM coolant greenish one and more recent bluish one. The problem with genuine coolant is price - quite expensive to do full flush (10.6L with rear heater).

There are many many Pajeros here that aren't using OEM coolant. Ours included. First coolant flush and refill was done at 45,000ks with non OEM coolant and has been done every 45,000ks since using the same non OEM coolant. Our NS is now sitting on 345,000ks.

Do your research and don't listen to the fed to you by Mitsubishi or any other vehicle manufacture and be conned into purchasing overpriced so called OEM coolant, engine oil, auto transmission oil and filters.

[Maccaman194]

Hi Bruce and Bobby
Agree entirely.
I just got the 60,000 service done at the Mitsubishi Dealership in Newcastle. $1500 thanks including the tappet adjustment, replacement brake fluid, and coolant change.
I looked at the bill and found:
- Coolant 5l $138 plus GST that is over $30 per litre!
- Engine oil 9.8l $137 plus GST over $15 per litre
The fuel filter was over $100 when you include GST, and the cabin filter nearly the same cost!
That is a joke. The costs of those parts is much higher now than when I was getting the previous Paj serviced at Klosters Mitsi. On this NX I had not looked too hard because it had Fixed Price Servicing up until this 60k service.
I have serviced my previous NS till I sold it at 290,000km (after it came out of warranty), and on this NX at 7500km intermediate services with Penrite Enviro Plus full synthetic. That can be exy but I wait till on special at Repco or Supercheap and get 10l for about $80-90. A service kit of Ryco oil, fuel and air filters from Sparesbox is usually about $90 if you buy on sale and put aside ready.
How can Mitsubishi justify these costs? Ridiculous.
Screw the warranty - I think I will be doing my servicing myself again from here on in. At least I know it is done properly and at one third the cost.
Cheers

[spot01]

Hi Bruce and Bobby
Agree entirely.
I just got the 60,000 service done at the Mitsubishi Dealership in Newcastle. $1500 thanks including the tappet adjustment, replacement brake fluid, and coolant change.
I looked at the bill and found:
- Coolant 5l $138 plus GST that is over $30 per litre!
- Engine oil 9.8l $137 plus GST over $15 per litre
The fuel filter was over $100 when you include GST, and the cabin filter nearly the same cost!
That is a joke. The costs of those parts is much higher now than when I was getting the previous Paj serviced at Klosters Mitsi. On this NX I had not looked too hard because it had Fixed Price Servicing up until this 60k service.
I have serviced my previous NS till I sold it at 290,000km (after it came out of warranty), and on this NX at 7500km intermediate services with Penrite Enviro Plus full synthetic. That can be exy but I wait till on special at Repco or Supercheap and get 10l for about $80-90. A service kit of Ryco oil, fuel and air filters from Sparesbox is usually about $90 if you buy on sale and put aside ready.
How can Mitsubishi justify these costs? Ridiculous.
Screw the warranty - I think I will be doing my servicing myself again from here on in. At least I know it is done properly and at one third the cost.
Cheers

Those prices are well above what my dealer charges. I'm forming the view that people should get quotes from 3 dealers before booking in. Ask for "trade" - it costs nothing to ask.

I supply my own oil and I don't get the cabin filter changed every year (as it doesn't need it for my use, but some people may need to)

At least they only charged for 5L of coolant. I'm told they can only get about 5L out when changing, but some dealers charge for the "nominal Capacity" of about 8 or 9 litres despite being unable to go over 5L unless they pull the system apart.