New to Buying a Paj

[SBCFJ40]

Morning everyone.
Thanks for the approval.
From Adelaide SA
Well I'm looking to buy a NP or NS Paj in the 3.2 diesel.
Bit nervous about going diesel as I've been a petrol head all my life.
I've done so much reading I think I'm confusing myself...lol
So a couple of questions?

1. NP 3.2 DI-D vs NS 3.2 Common rail pros and cons

2. Would you go for standard Paj with low 150 Km's for $16k or cheaper with more 220-260 Km's for $10-11k then accessorize? Eg suspension, roof racks, bull bar, dual battery etc. As I can only do one or the other.

3. Manual vs auto?

Thanks in advance

[rykiel575]

Be aware of expensive fuel pump in the NP. About 5-6k to get fixed.

If it were me id go NS manual. (NS auto had too many issues with the DPF)

[nj swb]

Morning everyone.
Thanks for the approval.
From Adelaide SA
Well I'm looking to buy a NP or NS Paj in the 3.2 diesel.
Bit nervous about going diesel as I've been a petrol head all my life.
I've done so much reading I think I'm confusing myself...lol
So a couple of questions?

1. NP 3.2 DI-D vs NS 3.2 Common rail pros and cons

2. Would you go for standard Paj with low 150 Km's for $16k or cheaper with more 220-260 Km's for $10-11k then accessorize? Eg suspension, roof racks, bull bar, dual battery etc. As I can only do one or the other.

3. Manual vs auto?

Thanks in advance

Pros & cons?

NP DiD uses an electronic controlled rotary injection pump that can fail with essentially no warning. See here. I would lean heavily toward the common rail i.e. the NS.

Manual vs Auto? I'm very happy with the Aisin transmission in my NT, but the NP and NS used a Jatco transmission. I've never driven one, so can't comment on strengths and weaknesses, but the NS Auto comes with a DPF - the manual doesn't. The NS DPF has been a source of great heartache for some owners, while others have never had any problems, which is likely to be in large part related to use - regular short runs are generally considered not good for DPFs. I'm not saying you should avoid an Auto NS, but make sure you understand the implications of the DPF, and options for managing it.

Having had both manual and auto 4wds, and being a manual driver at heart (manual road toy ) I deliberately chose an auto NT, and don't see myself ever going back to a manual for 4wding.

[El_Freddo]

We’ve just got our NP DiD auto and had it about a month so far, now on 323k km.

The auto shifts well and the diesel pulls well too.

We got ours with about half of those accessories you’ve listed, we’re missing the lift, but that’s not what this vehicle is about for us yet. This is our daily family vehicle with the occasional off-road adventure when Mrs El Freddo allows it.

With the auto I’ve read about them “imploding” but there are symptoms that suggest you do something before you need a new box. This is commonly reported to occur around the 350k km mark.

As for the pump... we’re hoping that ours was already done but really we're unsure. There’s some red silicone around the pump mounting area to suggest it’s been out before. Time will well on that front.

If you can road test the vehicle make sure you get it up to cruising speed and check that the torque converter locks up properly. Load it up when travelling up a hill and watch for engine revs climbing with speed or increasing ~300rpm before climbing with speed. Ours does the ~300 rpm increase and this, from my reading on the forum, suggests the torque converter lock either isn’t working or is weak.

General driving etc, it’s comfortable, roomy and my wife enjoys driving it so it’s a win for our family and we aim to have it for a long while before moving it on.

If this was my daily vehicle it would be a manual as that’s what I prefer and when off-road I like to be the one picking which gear to be in and having to use the clutch etc. but an auto off-road in general can make things a lot easier, especially in the crawling stuff.

Cheers

Bennie

PS: welcome to the forum - lots to read!!