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-   -   PC Challenger Auto Trans Reverse Issue (https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=65909)

Despicable 30-11-19 04:32 PM

PC Challenger Auto Trans Reverse Issue
 
Hi All,
I’ve been a member for quite a while now, and have read most every post, but this is my first post.
I have an issue with reverse in my PC Challenger Auto. The car was purchased new in 2014 and has only 21000 klms on the clock. It isn’t a daily driver, tows a 1.56 Tonne Tare – 2.06 Tonne ATM caravan when we can get away, no big trips yet, 300 klms at most so far. The warranty expired this year. It has been serviced by Mitsubishi since new and has been reliable.
I drove the Challenger last weekend, not towing, and noticed it engaged reverse more harshly than normal. I thought little of it at the time, but when I drove it again today, the harshness was still there. The car drove normally and reversed normally, but when I was reversing out of a picnic ground, I noticed my reverse camera wasn’t operating. I drove home before looking to much into it. When I got home, I realised the reverse sensors weren’t picking anything up, and that the reverse lights were out. I checked the fuses and they were all fine. It was then I realised there was no ‘R’ in the digital display on the dash. P, N, and D show up, just no R.
I dropped the third bash plate so I could watch the selector as the gearbox was cycled through the gears and all looked fine. It is all very clean and like new underneath as the bulk of the off road use this car gets is beach and sand driving. I have a Navara dual cab that gets dirty.
The car selects reverse mechanically; it just doesn’t seem to know it’s in reverse electronically.
There are 3 things I’ve done to the car lately that may or may not have had an impact on this but are worth mentioning. I have recently reinstalled my updated Automate. I don’t think this is the issue as I have run Automate since it was available for a PC, and Lockup Mate before that. Never had an issue before and couldn’t imagine towing without it again. To be sure though I tested the car with Automate turned off and then disconnected. The reverse issue continued.
I have changed my rear springs from KCRS-23 Raised to KCRR-23HD Raised. I can’t see how this would cause the issue, but there may be wiring to the back of the car I have damaged unknowingly but doubt it. The reverse light and automatic fuses were fine though. I both checked and replaced them.
The third was to feed a twin core 8mm2 wire through the large grommet on the passenger side firewall and feed it through behind the glove box. I had the dash in this area partly disassembled to see as best I could when feeding a solid wire through first. I took a few goes to get the solid wire through. Is there anything behind the glove box that I could have disconnected, without knowing, that could cause this? I ran this cable under the passenger side kick panels to my drawers. It's not connected to anything yet, just a cable from under the bonnet to the cargo area.
Where is the reverse light switch? My next thought is to check the switch to see if it is connecting, try to connect it to see if it makes a difference.
The car did throw a P1901 code when I reconnected Automate, but that is normal, at least for mine. I find I can clear this code straight away with my UltaGauge if I have the ignition on but the car not running. It’s hard to clear with the car running. There is no check engine light on at the moment.
Any thoughts guys? Thanks for your time in advance and thanks for all the tips and advice I have read on this forum in the past few years. It’s a valuable resource for Challenger owners like me, although I can’t recall reading about a problem quite like mine.

Edit: I just put the car away and it threw a P0705 code. I cleared the code, and the problem persists.

Cheers,
Despicable.

old Jack 30-11-19 05:12 PM

Must be season for inhibit switches going out of adjustment.

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...ad.php?t=58757

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...d.php?p=621366

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...=59827&page=14
From post 132 onwards.

OJ.

BruceandBobbi 30-11-19 05:21 PM

What the P0705 code means

Diagnostic trouble code P0705 indicates that the Engine Control Module (ECM) or Transmission Control Module (TCM) has received an input error from the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS). This switch is also known as a pressure switch, Park Neutral Position switch (PNP), the gear selection switch, or a PRNDL input switch. The function of the Transmission Range Sensor is to tell the ECM or TCM the position of the shift lever. The TRS is most commonly located on the outside of the transmission, however some of them are located inside of the transmission on the valve body.
This particular trouble code will set if the ECM does not receive an input. It also will set if the ECM receives an input that can not be logically possible: for example if the vehicle is going 50 MPH, but the Transmission Range Sensor tells the ECM that it is in Reverse, a code P0705 will set. There also have been instances where a TRS faulted to a point where the ECM was told that it is in more than one gear simultaneously; if this is the case a code P0705 will be set

old Jack 30-11-19 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BruceandBobbi (Post 621382)
What the P0705 code means

Diagnostic trouble code P0705 indicates that the Engine Control Module (ECM) or Transmission Control Module (TCM) has received an input error from the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS). This switch is also known as a pressure switch, Park Neutral Position switch (PNP), the gear selection switch, or a PRNDL input switch. The function of the Transmission Range Sensor is to tell the ECM or TCM the position of the shift lever. The TRS is most commonly located on the outside of the transmission, however some of them are located inside of the transmission on the valve body.
This particular trouble code will set if the ECM does not receive an input. It also will set if the ECM receives an input that can not be logically possible: for example if the vehicle is going 50 MPH, but the Transmission Range Sensor tells the ECM that it is in Reverse, a code P0705 will set. There also have been instances where a TRS faulted to a point where the ECM was told that it is in more than one gear simultaneously; if this is the case a code P0705 will be set


I too found the above info, but when I checked on the Diagnostic Fault Code list in the Service Manual there is no P0705 code listed.

OJ.

Despicable 30-11-19 06:15 PM

Thanks Guys for the prompt replies and advice. I will try adjusting the inhibitor switch tomorrow.


Cheers,
Despicable

Despicable 01-12-19 03:04 PM

Hi Guys,

Tried adjusting the cable on the selector that is on the side of the gearbox, but with no luck. I can loose my N, and my D, put the N where the D should be, but can’t get get my R back.
I think my next step will be to replace the inhibit switch with a new one. I did a quick search online and they come up on eBay for as low as $35 dollars, up to $185 for a supposedly genuine one. My 1st thought was to buy a genuine one, but if this is the fault, my factory one didn’t last more than 21000 klms, so genuine probably isn’t worth the difference. Any suggestions as to where else to price this? I did read somewhere that they can cost around $400 from Mitsubishi. Can anyone confirm the part number?
I see Old Jack has suggested testing the switch in one of his attached threads, but think if I’m going to disconnect it, I might as well replace it.
I did back track over the other jobs I had done on the car recently and can’t see anything that I damaged.
I searched online for other makes of car with my problem and found that a faulty inhibit switch will take out the reverse lights, sensors and so on. Another common cause was a damaged wire under the car at the switch. This unlikely with mine as it’s like new underneath and the auto is protected by a bash plate. I also read that a faulty inhibit switch is said to be common in Tritons and L200’s.
I think switch replacement is the way to go for me, unless there are any other suggestions?
Thanks again for your time.

Cheers,
Despicable.

old Jack 01-12-19 03:28 PM

Replacing the inhibit switch without testing loom continuity means you might be unlucky and replace the switch and it still not work if you have a loom problem.

It is not a big job to disconnect the loom plugs at the inhibit switch and the AT ECU and checked loom continuity. Just remember to insert test probes from the wire side of the plugs and do not use the plug pins or sockets, as these are easily damaged and you can cause yourself more problems.

Disconnecting the inhibit switch plug and doing a continuity test on all 4 gear selection positions is easy and this would would confirm if the switch is faulty or not. Once again insert test problems from wire side of the plug.
http://faq.out-club.ru/download/paje...910AC00ENG.pdf

Park Terminals 1-7 and 9 -10.
Reverse Terminal 7-8.
Neutral Terminals 7-2 and 9-10.
Drive Terminals 3-7.
Continuity, less than 2Ω resistance.

OJ.

Despicable 01-12-19 04:05 PM

Thanks Old Jack. I will test before I buy one. The diagram you attached is a big help.

Cheers,
Despicable.

spot01 01-12-19 05:09 PM

Simple things first:


You mention it is "like new" underneath, but earlier you mentioned it has had beach use - perhaps the salt has caused a corroded connection underneath that isn't obvious?


You say you have checked the fuses - how did you check them & which fuses? It wouldn't be the first time an apparently unrelated fuse has caused a drama & much running around in circles!


BTW, just because the manufacturer's warranty has expired doesn't mean you have no warranty - the Statutory Warranty (per the Australian Consumer Law) still applies and should cover a fault such as this (unless caused by something done to the car). Once you start pulling it apart they are more likely to argue you have caused it. I would have a conversation with the dealer's service people in the first instance - you never know, it may have occurred before.

old Jack 01-12-19 05:27 PM

The inhibit switch is in the ignition circuit so is the engine starts and runs then there should be power to the input side of the inhibit switch.The fact that the dash display is indicating also confirms power to the circuit.

OJ.


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