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My Rear Shelf & 7th Seat arrangement

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  • GeoCal
    Junior Member
    • Apr 2019
    • 10
    • GEELONG

    My Rear Shelf & 7th Seat arrangement

    Rear Shelf:
    After seeing a shelf in another thread, I thought to myself that this has got to be the way I set up the back of my car.
    As I can be a muppet sometimes and carry some heavy things, I thought it best to build it out of steel as I wasn’t sure the aluminium pieces would be strong enough for my needs.
    Measured up and dry fitting the pieces to see if it would work.

    Then off to work to weld it all together.

    Test fit:

    Note to self, when you get halfway through and you think to yourself,
    "huh, the welds don’t look like they normally do."
    Go home and sleep on it rather than just finishing the job. That way you don’t have to go home swearing...
    Had to recut everything (good thing I grabbed HEAPS of extra steel) and reweld. This time, with the MIG gas valve wide open! DOH!
    The frame came up a treat after grinding off the excess welds and a lick of paint.


    The frame bolts into the floor of the car with long bolts after removing and reusing the car’s tie down points. A little piece of carpet with a hole through it makes it all look that little bit neater.

    Behind the center seats, the car at the left and right is a different height to the center, I notched out the left and right hand floor bars to accommodate for the variance.

    Lengths of Steel used:
    2x - 525mm, Bottom Left and right (notched out)
    3x - 1010mm, Back Bottom, Back Top, Middle Top
    1x - 1115mm, Top Front
    4x - 230mm, Uprights
    2x - 273mm, Uprights Front
    1x - 340mm, Back top Support
    2x - 245mm, Front top Supports

    Density 25x25x2 = 1.36kg/m
    20x20x2 = 1.05kg/m
    Cost:
    Paint: $7.89
    Screws: $4.46
    12mm Plywood: $52.25 (Only need 50%, Other part can be used for what I did below)
    Steel: $35ish


    Cut a hole for little feet's anchor strap to go through using 2 hole saw cuts and a jigsaw to join them together.
    Bit of liquid nails, a staple gun, and covered it in carpet and there you go!







    Also, with this design, you can still fully lift and remove the cover for the 7 seats!
    The standard Nylex recycle tubs fit under perfectly without pinching fingers.

    Notes:
    If anyone wants the first piece I did, you are welcome to it! The welds will hold (i jumped on it) they just dont look as neat.
    In the process of getting a fridge slide to mount on the top.
    Also, the LED bars have arrived. There will be a set of LED lights secured under the shelf to illuminate underneath, updated post to follow.

    Not too bad for an IT guy...



    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    'Out of sight, out of mind'
    I carry a few tools day to day and needed a place they all fitted, didnt knock around, and were out of the way.
    Well, after cutting the rear shelf timber to fit, I had plenty of plywood to knock something together.
    12mm is a bit excessive for this purpose, but it's what was lying around after the shelf build above.
    The design of the rear shelf allows the cover to be lifted up fully and removed with ease.
    The part organisers are from Bunnings, and the main tool bag with the hand tools sit's up the back shelf.
    Some of the recovery gear and shackles on the right, and the jumper leads on the left fill up the remaining dead sapce.



    There is little pieces of leftover carpet for the tools to sit on so that they dont get rubbing marks on them.
    Take points off for not painting it a nice colour, but it's functional!
  • Hatto
    Valued Member
    • Nov 2013
    • 1208
    • Mandurah WA

    #2
    Nice job mate. Looks perfectly fit for purpose.
    Cheers, Hatto

    2012 NW GLS Diesel Auto with:
    ARB delux bar, full length Ocam ally roof rack with rear LED work light, dual batteries, DIY rear ally drawers with fridge slide, 2" lift oztec/kings, Polyairs, Kings awning 2.5 x 2.5m with LED strip light, pair of genr8 40w LED spot/flood driving lights, iron man 4x4 22" LED light bar, mounted thumper compressor, 70L water tank & 12v pump, 120w solar, LED interior lights, Boo Boo's bash plates, Safari snorkel and Grande mk lll 12000lb winch.

    Comment

    • Garc
      Senior Member
      • May 2015
      • 321
      • Perth

      #3
      How do you hold the front of the frame down?
      Gary

      2008 NS DiD Exceed. MM factory alloy full bar, Autosafe cargo barrier, Roley's rear bash plate, Uniden 8080 UHF, Kings 120A lithium battery in rear cargo area, Renogy DCDC charger, fire ext mounted in place of rear door handle, Redarc EBC, BushSkinz IC & sump. ARB Frontier replacement fuel tank, Pedders track rider suspension. Lockup Mate.

      Comment

      • paceman
        Valued Member
        • Feb 2018
        • 432
        • Mackay

        #4
        looks awesome, mate...

        which bits are the 25x25 and which are the 20x20?

        also, can you elaborate on the 'notched' parts?
        Paceman's NT Pajero

        Comment

        • GeoCal
          Junior Member
          • Apr 2019
          • 10
          • GEELONG

          #5
          The front & rear of the frame is held down using the 4 cargo tie down points, there are 2 at the back of the second seats, and 2 when you open the rear door.
          4 bolts holds the whole shelf down.

          The notched section looks like this:

          Sorry its a crappy photo, I just ran outside. This is also a picture of my 'test' piece.
          The 20x20 vs 25x25 figures were there for my notes, all of this was made in 25x25.

          Comment

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