DC to DC Charger

[Mark1969]

Hi all,

I’m looking at installing a charger for my dual battery in my PS.

I’ve seen the Red Arc BCDC1225D but was wondering if anyone else has used another brand?

Cheers Mark

[wazza5]

http://www.intervolt.com/product/in-vehicle-dc-dc-battery-charger/

https://www.offroadlife4x4.com.au/reviews-comparisons/dcdc-chargers-explained

Shop around and you can get a good price.

Happy with mine, easy setup and display is very handy.

[glids37]

My son is using a Projecta DC/DC charger in his camper trailer. Not sure if DC20 or PC20.

Seems to work fine.

Cheers,
glids

[ticky]

I also have the Projecta.

[Travel Tragic]

dcdcchargers

Hi, In my business I have used and installed Redarc, Projecta and Ctec dcdc chargers and had no problems with any of them. The Redarc although more expensive is, I think, still Australian made and have one of the best tech help lines, Ctec is pretty good too don't know much about the back up from Projecta. I must admit to liking to support locally made product and to have the opportunity to give someone a ring if things don't go right when your fitting them. I have the Redarc fitted to my NX Pajero. John

[Ian H]

I've got a 1220 Redarc in the Paj and a 1240 in the van. Both faultless and i have had occasion to ring them for advice and they were great.

[AstinGC90]

Another vote for the Intervolt, had one in my PS for months without issue

[damos75]

I have the Red Arc BCDC1225D. It has performed brilliantly.

I had issues with my solar setup and rang the Redarc help line. They talked me through my setup and we worked out it was my solar panels that were the problem (Non Redarc). They were very helpful.

With my solar panels fixed it now works perfectly with the Redarc.

[Merts]

I have a Projecta IDC25 in the ute, and another in the camper. They work very well. I've used the solar input on the one in the camper, and had no issues with that either.

[vitchie]

Do you guys connect the signal wire on the Projecta or do you just rely on the voltage of the crank battery to drop below 12.8v?

[Merts]

Do you guys connect the signal wire on the Projecta or do you just rely on the voltage of the crank battery to drop below 12.8v?

You don't really need the ignition wire connected unless you have a smart alternator. With a standard alternator, the default VSR mode turns the charger off when the input voltage drops below 12.8V.

[sharkcaver]

Go the Projecta IDC 25 for the following reasons:

1. It's the best value for money

2. Projecta support is only a phone call away.I've had a couple of dealings with them now (other product) and their backup is fine

3. It comes out of the box in standard, LV or IGN variants - something redarc still has to get their head around. Just depends how you wire it up.

(to answer another question, with an ecu controlled alternator in the Paj, Mine is wired up as standard. I found having the fan running at all times - even on notch 1, voltage never drops below the turn on threshold when running, so no need for connecting to an IGN source)

4. Doesn't require additional circuitry or relays for solar input like some of the redarcs - projecta/ctek set the standard, now redarc is trying to catch up

5. Is slimline like the redarc. The ctek is next but the intervolt is a bit "boxy but nice". That may have an impact on where you wish to mount it.

The only thing the intervolt has for me over the others is the remote screen telling you what's happening back there. But you pay a price for that, and questionable if its really needed.

The only disadvantage I see with the IDC25 is like redarc it is supplied bare ended. Not as nice to hook up like the intervolt or ctek, but it's not a major issue either. I anderson plugged my IDC25 connections so it can be removed easy if needed. Anderson power poles would probably be better, but I wanted to "sava da money", so I cut a standard anderson plug in half. I just have to be careful should I need to pull it out and reconnect it - which, knowing projecta's quality, I doubt that will happen.

Hope the above gives you something to think about.




EDIT: Oh, and I should mention, the minimum solar input voltage on the IDC25 is 9V, not 17.5V like the redarc. So you can be pretty sure all panels will work with that. I've had to fix a few peoples solar issues on their redarc in the field in the past - by loaning them my bloody panels Grrrr

[vitchie]

Thanks. The only reason I ask, my projecta charges no problem, but I see the charge indicator stays on for hours, even more than a day sometimes. Just wondering if that is not going to shorten the life of my crank battery. I Thought the IDC would stop charging a minute or two after switching ignition off like in my previous car.

[sharkcaver]

Thanks. The only reason I ask, my projecta charges no problem, but I see the charge indicator stays on for hours, even more than a day sometimes. Just wondering if that is not going to shorten the life of my crank battery. I Thought the IDC would stop charging a minute or two after switching ignition off like in my previous car.

They will stop charging when the feed battery drops to the set voltage threshold. 12.8V from memory on the IDC25. New batteries seem to hold that voltage point for some time. Just because its "charging" doesn't mean full current. It may be in float, drawing very little from the feed battery and taking a long time for the cut off threshold to be met.

[Merts]

Thanks. The only reason I ask, my projecta charges no problem, but I see the charge indicator stays on for hours, even more than a day sometimes. Just wondering if that is not going to shorten the life of my crank battery. I Thought the IDC would stop charging a minute or two after switching ignition off like in my previous car.

I'd be checking to make sure the ignition switch wire hasn't been connected directly to the main battery, which would make the unit operate with a lower (11.9) voltage cutout.