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question about front end suspensions setups

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  • kreyzgym
    Senior Member
    • Mar 2012
    • 275
    • Melbourne

    question about front end suspensions setups

    Just confirming that gen 1 and gen 2 lower ball joints are definitely different?

    I've just put in gen 2 UCA's and need to order new ball joints, so figured I would order lowers together cause mine are shagged, but I'll need to order gen1 specific lowers and gen 2 uppers now, right?

    Also, if I decide to leave the ball joints regular, not flipped, would I be right in thinking there would need to be like a 10mm+ shim due to the added length of the arm?
    1989 NG single cab ute. 33" Federals, ARB bar & completely incomplete
  • tuffpajNT
    Member
    • Dec 2014
    • 76
    • Darwin

    #2
    What's the advantage of gen2 upper control arms?

    Comment

    • kreyzgym
      Senior Member
      • Mar 2012
      • 275
      • Melbourne

      #3
      For me, bolt in ball joints and the ability to flip them.

      Still undecided on whether to flip them or not.. All evidence is saying no for drivability, but it's not my daily drive, so the improved angle on the ball joint itself may pay itself off
      1989 NG single cab ute. 33" Federals, ARB bar & completely incomplete

      Comment

      • nitram977
        Member
        • Mar 2008
        • 60
        • Wollongong.NSW

        #4
        Gen 2 upper control arms on gen 1

        Hi,

        Ive been told that the gen 2 upper control arms have about an extra 2 inches of droop. Combine this with cutting the bump stops gives a fair bit more travel. But im a bit confused about the whole ball joint flip thing.

        Can someone explain what I need to do in terms of ball joints?

        Regards

        Scott

        Comment

        • Paj man
          Valued Member
          • Mar 2010
          • 858
          • Perth

          #5
          From what I can see - the gen1/2 lower ball joints look similar but not the same. I would contact a auto shop or even Mitsubishi to see if the part numbers are similar but I would expect not. You will definitely need to have the alignment re-done after swapping the control arms and ensure the aligners complete a shim adjustment as well (ask them before dropping it off). Bakerboy didn't do this back in the day and chewed his claws out in no time.

          The ball joint flip moves the ball joint from resting on the top of the upper control arm to the bottom of the arm. This gives an additional droop but puts the bolts which hold the ball joint in tension rather than compression. This is why people drill the holes out to accommodate a larger bolt and use high tensile bolts when flipping the ball joint. I personally have not flipped mine but I can't see the sense in flipping a ball joint and leaving the droop stop trimmed, I would take them off and glue a thin bit of rubber in their place if your after extra travel - it's much safer with a similar result. There's a generic photo of a pajero with a flipped ball joint that went wrong which is a good example of the consequences of a bad job.
          1997 NK - Quad cam goodness turning 33 Duratrac's and 4.9 diffs, 2inch lift, steel front/sides/rear, front locker and a winch

          Now pending: Nothing

          Comment

          • andyhi696
            Junior Member
            • Apr 2016
            • 34
            • Logan

            #6
            4d56 engine

            Hi all,
            I have a 4d56 engine that dropped a valve sitting in the shed. Anyone interesred? Offers invited

            Comment

            • kreyzgym
              Senior Member
              • Mar 2012
              • 275
              • Melbourne

              #7
              Hey paj man. Just an update as this was 2 years ago, yes different part numbers for gen 1 and 2 lower ball joints. I left the uppers as normal, not flipped. Not keen on drilling and using larger high tensile bolts. Also got an alignment and yes, 2 tries at it before the shims were put in
              1989 NG single cab ute. 33" Federals, ARB bar & completely incomplete

              Comment

              • Paj man
                Valued Member
                • Mar 2010
                • 858
                • Perth

                #8
                Aha no worries mate - well food for thought anyway.
                1997 NK - Quad cam goodness turning 33 Duratrac's and 4.9 diffs, 2inch lift, steel front/sides/rear, front locker and a winch

                Now pending: Nothing

                Comment

                • awbeattie381
                  Valued Member
                  • Apr 2011
                  • 888
                  • Inner West, Sydney

                  #9
                  replacing my control arms with Gen 2 versions is definitely on the list, as is a throttle body from a NL SOHC paj...love retrofitting newer parts to older models...

                  Have you noticed the difference since swapping to Gen 2 arms?
                  Andrew
                  1989 NG Superwagon V6
                  2017 Subaru Forester Diesel
                  1974 Viscount Valiant Caravan

                  Comment

                  • kreyzgym
                    Senior Member
                    • Mar 2012
                    • 275
                    • Melbourne

                    #10
                    Other than having a spare pair of ball joints on the shelf in the garage, nah. Haha. But it is good to know I can easily swap them out if need be. Apparently the droop is increased, but considering how easily they lift a wheel I can't imagine it helps a great deal. I also have standard bump stops, not shaved so my droop probably isn't changed at all.
                    To save me searching - what's different about the throttle body on the NL? Bigger? Brings back memories of being 18/19 putting bigger throttle bodies on my NA RB30 skylines for sweet intake... hahaha
                    1989 NG single cab ute. 33" Federals, ARB bar & completely incomplete

                    Comment

                    • awbeattie381
                      Valued Member
                      • Apr 2011
                      • 888
                      • Inner West, Sydney

                      #11
                      Interesting feedback about the Gen 2 control arms. Not sure I could be bothered now...

                      Well apparently the bigger throttle body delivers more power (noticeable) but I have also heard that it results in greater fuel efficiency. Not sure how.

                      I am keen to do the swap in any case as I am getting sick of my Paj struggling to idle when it gets warm. When it first started to happen I had a bit of dirt in the throttle body, and it seems that although it gets a clean every 6 months, I still get erratic idling when its been sitting and idling for longer than a couple of minutes. Soooooooooo annoying.

                      Just need to find the right throttle body now (at the right price). Just make sure its a throttle body from a NL model (SOHC). The other models dont fit as well and require a lot of grinding apparently.
                      Andrew
                      1989 NG Superwagon V6
                      2017 Subaru Forester Diesel
                      1974 Viscount Valiant Caravan

                      Comment

                      • stumagoo
                        Valued Member
                        • Jun 2014
                        • 2064
                        • Perth WA S.O.R

                        #12
                        The biggest difference I have seen from Gen 1 to Gen 2 is -
                        a the Ball joints
                        b the actual arm is completely boxed in on the Gen 2 and likely to be a lot stronger.

                        Depending on how you use your wagon its debatable whether gen 2 arms are needed but if you are anything like me (and totally dumb when off road) then they are a good idea in my book
                        1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
                        *** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
                        1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
                        .

                        Comment

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