negative switching. - where did you tap ?

[denmonkey]

Hi Guys,
I installed a set of driving lights on the weekend and have it all wired up bar the connection to the head light.
I can confirm the NT is negatively switched (used a fuse tap with no joy) and with my wiring I simply need to tap the highbeam BUT the harness is way down in the engine bay making it all but impossible to get a splice onto.
I prefer to to avoid any of those joiners and do a solder and heat shrink job to make sure its done right and no moisture will get it.
I want to make sure they come on with highbeam. I know its no longer a requirement but its easier to dip with oncoming traffic instead of reaching for switches as well.
I'm chasing the red/yellow wire I believe but can't even get two hands on it to test to be sure.
If anyone has traced the wire and knows if it is easily accessible higher up, I'd like to know and would happily bare your first born child or buy you a beer. Which ever you prefer.

FYI I'm using this wiring plan

[ticky]

did you get a wiring kit with your light/s?

[denmonkey]

no mate, wiring them up myself.

[NFT5]

I can confirm the NT is negatively switched

No, they're not.

Almost all Mitsubishis, Pajero included, use positive switching of the headlight and negative switching for the relay. Since relay switching is done by an ECU it's best to stay clear of that side.

See the wiring diagram below. A fuse tap will work at Fuse No. 27 or 28.

[jimsutt]

Hi Guys,
I installed a set of driving lights on the weekend and have it all wired up bar the connection to the head light.
I can confirm the NT is negatively switched (used a fuse tap with no joy) and with my wiring I simply need to tap the highbeam BUT the harness is way down in the engine bay making it all but impossible to get a splice onto.
I prefer to to avoid any of those joiners and do a solder and heat shrink job to make sure its done right and no moisture will get it.
I want to make sure they come on with highbeam. I know its no longer a requirement but its easier to dip with oncoming traffic instead of reaching for switches as well.
I'm chasing the red/yellow wire I believe but can't even get two hands on it to test to be sure.
If anyone has traced the wire and knows if it is easily accessible higher up, I'd like to know and would happily bare your first born child or buy you a beer. Which ever you prefer.

FYI I'm using this wiring plan

I am sure that Pajeros are NOT negatively switched and I have used 2 fuse taps on my NX.
There is a genuine Mitsubishi wiring kit for driving lights, just plugs into the existing wiring.
This kit is the safest method to wire Driving Lights and being Genuine doesn't effect the warranty.

[vladguan]

Yep, lights are positively switched. The basic wiring of driving lights are as follows and mods/admins should really sticky it.

1. Take out fuse 27 or 28 and insert into the lower slot of an add-a-circuit fuse tap.
2. Insert a 5A fuse into the top slot of the fuse tap and then insert the fuse tap into the empty highbeam fuse slot.
3. Extend the tail of the fuse tap to relay pin 86.
4. Connect pin 85 of relay to switch in cabin and ground the other pin of the switch inside the cabin (no need to take it out to the engine bay again).
5. Source illumination power from an adjacent switch if required.
6. Connect pin 30 of relay to battery +ve via an inline fuse that is suitable for the pwer draw of the lights.
7. Connect pin 87 of the relay to the +Ve of the light(s).
8. Ground the -ve of the light(s).
9. Tape up all the connectors with good quality electrical tape.

[NFT5]

.

[vladguan]

.

Lol. Saw your unedited post. It is only the trigger wire and the switches cannot handle lots of power as well.

[NFT5]

Yep, the message is "engage brain before typing".

[denmonkey]

Yep, lights are positively switched. The basic wiring of driving lights are as follows and mods/admins should really sticky it.

1. Take out fuse 27 or 28 and insert into the lower slot of an add-a-circuit fuse tap.
2. Insert a 5A fuse into the top slot of the fuse tap and then insert the fuse tap into the empty highbeam fuse slot.
3. Extend the tail of the fuse tap to relay pin 86.
4. Connect pin 85 of relay to switch in cabin and ground the other pin of the switch inside the cabin (no need to take it out to the engine bay again).
5. Source illumination power from an adjacent switch if required.
6. Connect pin 30 of relay to battery +ve via an inline fuse that is suitable for the pwer draw of the lights.
7. Connect pin 87 of the relay to the +Ve of the light(s).
8. Ground the -ve of the light(s).
9. Tape up all the connectors with good quality electrical tape.

Cheers, Figured this one and just came back to advise.
Turns out I'm a boof head and was using the tap and a 12v feed from inside the cab .
Of course when you turn on the lights you're throwing 12v at it from both ends and it wont switch.
The delica was negatively switched, so I went with that.
For some reason in my mind and god only knows why , I thought the negative switching could be jumpered at the fuse box.
In retrospect, its the stupidest thing I could have thought.
I've ordered a few more fuse taps because I used the 2 I had.
FYI supercheap will no longer be carrying them.
Ebay though 5 for 7 bucks. SC a tenner each.
Bennets green has some left if anyone needs them.
When they arrive I'll ground the switch in the cab and I'm good to go.
I guess thats what you get for trying to rush these things all in one day.

[vladguan]

Cheers, Figured this one and just came back to advise.
Turns out I'm a boof head and was using the tap and a 12v feed from inside the cab .
Of course when you turn on the lights you're throwing 12v at it from both ends and it wont switch.
The delica was negatively switched, so I went with that.
For some reason in my mind and god only knows why , I thought the negative switching could be jumpered at the fuse box.
In retrospect, its the stupidest thing I could have thought.
I've ordered a few more fuse taps because I used the 2 I had.
FYI supercheap will no longer be carrying them.
Ebay though 5 for 7 bucks. SC a tenner each.
Bennets green has some left if anyone needs them.
When they arrive I'll ground the switch in the cab and I'm good to go.
I guess thats what you get for trying to rush these things all in one day.

Jaycar

[jkwpajero]

Yep, lights are positively switched. The basic wiring of driving lights are as follows and mods/admins should really sticky it.

1. Take out fuse 27 or 28 and insert into the lower slot of an add-a-circuit fuse tap.
2. Insert a 5A fuse into the top slot of the fuse tap and then insert the fuse tap into the empty highbeam fuse slot.
3. Extend the tail of the fuse tap to relay pin 86.
4. Connect pin 85 of relay to switch in cabin and ground the other pin of the switch inside the cabin (no need to take it out to the engine bay again).
5. Source illumination power from an adjacent switch if required.
6. Connect pin 30 of relay to battery +ve via an inline fuse that is suitable for the pwer draw of the lights.
7. Connect pin 87 of the relay to the +Ve of the light(s).
8. Ground the -ve of the light(s).
9. Tape up all the connectors with good quality electrical tape.

I have followed Vlads very clear directions and had a small problem raise it's head. The light bar switch I am using is one that fits into the blank next to the ASC and Sonar switches that I got off Ebay. I took a dash light power feed from the Sonar disable switch to power the dash light in the switch and when I turned it on it kept blowing the parking light fuse for the drivers side. And the light bar would not switch off via the switch. I must have spliced into a +12v feed, even though I checked with a multimeter, and the switch was getting +12v from two directions. It is all I can think of I backtracked and removed the feed that powered the switch light, replaced the parking light fuse and the system works as it should have. Apart from step number five I have a working lightbar that is all legal. Not having the switch illuminate is no big deal in reality.


James

[vladguan]

I have followed Vlads very clear directions and had a small problem raise it's head. The light bar switch I am using is one that fits into the blank next to the ASC and Sonar switches that I got off Ebay. I took a dash light power feed from the Sonar disable switch to power the dash light in the switch and when I turned it on it kept blowing the parking light fuse for the drivers side. And the light bar would not switch off via the switch. I must have spliced into a +12v feed, even though I checked with a multimeter, and the switch was getting +12v from two directions. It is all I can think of I backtracked and removed the feed that powered the switch light, replaced the parking light fuse and the system works as it should have. Apart from step number five I have a working lightbar that is all legal. Not having the switch illuminate is no big deal in reality.


James

Which wire did you tap into from the adjacent switch? Also, which switch did you get from eBay? Your dash light feed may be correct but your switch wiring may be wrong.

The standard push on/off switch with illumination should have 4 wires.
E.g The standard one from AoB:
1. Red is power feed to the switch
2. Green goes to ground
3. Blue is dash light feed
4. Black is the ground for the dash light feed

Basically, there are two separate circuits in the switch. One for the switching and one for the dash illumination. It sounds like you wired the switching circuit to the dash circuit and vise versa.

The alternative to the above requires two wires into the cabin. That is:
1. High beam fuse tap to cabin switch red.
2. Switch green goes back to engine bay to relay pin 86 and ground relay pin 85.

With my way, you only need one wire into the cabin and ground the switch in the cabin. However, I did mine the second way as I had a two core cable handy.

[jkwpajero]

Method1: Switch activated
1. Take out fuse 27 or 28 and insert into the lower slot of an add-a-circuit fuse tap. Done
2. Insert a 5A fuse into the top slot of the fuse tap and then insert the fuse tap into the empty highbeam fuse slot. Done
3. Extend the tail of the fuse tap to relay pin 86. Done
4. Connect pin 85 of relay to switch in cabin and ground the other pin of the switch inside the cabin (no need to take it out to the engine bay again). Done into engine bay
5. Source illumination power from an adjacent switch if required. Not required
6. Connect pin 30 of relay to battery +ve via an inline fuse that is suitable for the power draw of the lights. Done
7. Connect pin 87 of the relay to the +Ve of the light(s).Done
8. Ground the -ve of the light(s). Done

All wiring is run in split corrugated tube. Soldered joins have heat shrink tubing over them and all male and female connectors have heat shrink tubing to avoiding shorting.

Vlad, The switch I have looks the same as the AOB one but the wiring colours are a little different as the pic shows. I now have the switch illumination wires not connected and it all works fine. I used a green/white for the illumination, now disconnected. The green (1) is connected to incoming power from relay pin 85 and the red (2) is earthed as per the notes. I think there are switches made in China, and a lot of "Chinese" switches. The quality is variable to say the least and I think I have a "Chinese" switch. It was only $20. I might look around and get a better quality one. The Lightforce branded ones may be better. I have a mate who is an auto sparky and I will get him to run an eye over my install, just for the sake of it.


James

[vladguan]

Your wiring is fine.

Now, you mentioned that it was blowing the driver's side parking light fuse. This fuse also protects the sonar cancel switch illumination. Now are you saying the fuse blows when you turn the switch on or when you turn on the lights or both? It should not be blowing that fuse by turning the switch on as the power to light up the bottom lLED is from the relay which ultimately comes from the highbeam fuse. The top LED is powered by the dash light/parking light fuse and should only turn on when the lights are on. If it is blowing the parking light fuse when you turn on the lights then there may be a fault with the top LED. The fact that when the fuse blows and you cannot turn off the LED light bar sounds like there is a fault with the switch. There may be a short circuit.

Also, you mentioned the switch was getting +12V from both directions, how was this measured exactly? Finally, I forgot to mention that both LEDs ground to the common black wire. That is, the switching circuit and the top LED has the same power source but the top LED grounds through the black wire. This is so that if the LED is stuffed (or in the case of old school bulbs), it won't prevent the switch from functioning.

BTW, the switches from AoB are not that much more expensive than cheap eBay ones and you do get local warranty. As far as I understan, they buy the switch blocks and blank caps from manufacturers and laser etch their own designs inhouse.