Headlight restoration

[MyExceed]

Hey all,

The surface on the headlights on my NS are starting to go off. I see you can buy a kit from the auto stores to rejuvenate them.

Do they restore the headlights long term or will it be something that I'll have to do regularly ??

Also, is there some other way to restore the lenses? Like would a very fine wet and dry paper work or some polishing paste work better long term ?

Looking for everyone's experiences

[Sparky3975]

Watching with interest as my head lights have seen better days too but being plastic not sure how they can be rejuvenated.

[MyExceed]

I've seen a few vids on YouTube but not sure which process has the best outcome or longevity..... And the last thing I wanna do is scratch the buggery outa them trying to remove the oxidisation.....

[skins2380]

Hi Mark,

I used Meguiars restoration kit about a year ago on a 2006 Mazda 6. Headlights were very bad, recon I had a reduction of at least 30-40% brightness owing the oxidisation or whatever its called - very pleased with the result. I was a bit concerned with the scratches on the lens when I nearly finished but the clear sealer in the kit completely fix that. Lens still look like new. There enough stuff in the kit to do 4 lens's I recon. Lots of other stuff on the market. I think the lens's were either plastic or a polycarbonate.

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Meguiar-s-Lens-Correction-Kit/342505

[MyExceed]

Hi Mark,

I used Meguiars restoration kit about a year ago on a 2006 Mazda 6. Headlights were very bad, recon I had a reduction of at least 30-40% brightness owing the oxidisation or whatever its called - very pleased with the result. I was a bit concerned with the scratches on the lens when I nearly finished but the clear sealer in the kit completely fix that. Lens still look like new. There enough stuff in the kit to do 4 lens's I recon. Lots of other stuff on the market. I think the lens's were either plastic or a polycarbonate.

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Pro...ion-Kit/342505

Thanks skins, that's top info...... I'm happy to hear that a year on they still look good

[stumagoo]

the clear sealer is the key, or a quality 2pak clear coat, we do it at panel shops where I have worked, fine grit wet rub then machine polish then clear coat. if no clear coat is applied expect to redo every few months.

[Les PK Ranger]

Hi Mark,

I used Meguiars restoration kit about a year ago on a 2006 Mazda 6.

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Pro...ion-Kit/342505

I do this professionally, along with the pdr, it's not as straight forward as it seems with some of these kits.

This kit as linked above looks ok.
The big process is to remove all the old UV coating from the acrylic lens.

We mask off the surrounding panels / grille etc with a special 2" vinyl tape, rub the old coating off with progressive W&D grit sandpapers from around 360g to 3000g (7 different rubbing processes through finer and finer grits), polish the acrylic up, clean with alcohol, then recoat with a UV block again.

It takes about an hour to hour and a half once you know the process, new coating dries pretty well in an hour.

We charge anything from $90 - $140 or so, depending on how bad the acrylic is affected.
Paying $66.50 for that kits seems a lot when you consider the difference to get it done right.
Watch for some professionals that only polish them, they don't use a new UV blocking coating . . . in 3 months the are yellowed and oxidising again :/

[Les PK Ranger]

Hmm, I just read the SCA review in that link posted by skins2380, this is the sort of thing that concerns me about self attempt . . .
___

30/07/2016
Ruined my headlights

I bought this product to restore my headlights which have developed a faint yellow colour to them. They weren't terrible but i felt i just needed to clean them up a bit. I bought this product to restore the look of the headlights, it however did anything but. The headlights have become worse since i cleaned them. The are more hazy than before and they are now scratched all over, I'm having to pay even more money to repair them. I would never recommend this product to anyone and now do not trust in any headlight restoration kit because i now do not see how they fix the look of the headlights. A complete waste of money and my time.
___

I've had to restore headlights that owners have tried to do themselves with toothpaste, and other little tricks you see mentioned around forums etc.

[vladguan]

I do this professionally, along with the pdr, it's not as straight forward as it seems with some of these kits.

This kit as linked above looks ok.
The big process is to remove all the old UV coating from the acrylic lens.

We mask off the surrounding panels / grille etc with a special 2" vinyl tape, rub the old coating off with progressive W&D grit sandpapers from around 360g to 3000g (7 different rubbing processes through finer and finer grits), polish the acrylic up, clean with alcohol, then recoat with a UV block again.

It takes about an hour to hour and a half once you know the process, new coating dries pretty well in an hour.

We charge anything from $90 - $140 or so, depending on how bad the acrylic is affected.
Paying $66.50 for that kits seems a lot when you consider the difference to get it done right.
Watch for some professionals that only polish them, they don't use a new UV blocking coating . . . in 3 months the are yellowed and oxidising again :/

My wife's Outlander has sections where the UV coating, I presume has come off already leaving a white edge. It looks like when clearcoat comes off a car panel. What is the best way to proceed as the lense is still clear otherwise.

[Les PK Ranger]

My wife's Outlander has sections where the UV coating, I presume has come off already leaving a white edge. It looks like when clearcoat comes off a car panel. What is the best way to proceed as the lense is still clear otherwise.

Hi Vlad, yes that is the factory UV coating degrading . . .

Just needs all that old coating removed Vlad, usually rubbing it off with abrasive sandpapers removes it all totally and evenly, if any is left the new coating will not come out perfect when applied.
The rubbing down needs to be done right, paint edges around / plastics protected from abrasive sandpapers used, progressive grits from whatever is needed at the start (usually 360g / 400g W&D), down to 3000g.
Like I said in earlier post, it's easier to use a lot of grades finer and finer as you rub each grit out to finer level, right down to 3000g which is easier polished.
Then the right UV block reapplied.

Done correctly with care, they come up like new, and last around the 7 - 10 years like factory coating before needing restoring again.

Vlad, I see in your profile you're in Adelaide ?
What suburb ?
If you're willing to pop over I'm happy to take a look for you and advise.
I'm south.
Message me if you want me to take a look for you, provide advice.
You may even want me to just do them for you, usually while you wait is ok, have a coffee, sit, talk.

[vladguan]

Cheers. I am up north. The Outlander is the wife's daily so will have to do it myself during the school break. Will PM you for advice when it comes time to do it.