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  • Ian Sharpe
    Valued Member
    • Nov 2000
    • 2176
    • Tasmania

    Overheating problem NL

    Hi guys, hoping someone ca n help me out here.

    I first noticed the Paj was getting hotter than usual a couple of months ago when I was doing some low range (both transfer cases in low) , pulling some timber out on a hill that I had cut down for firewood.

    The temp got up to 98-100 , I thought , hot day , really low gearing, not much air flow. It went back to normal once I stopped that work.

    But in the past 4 weeks its back worse. It got up to 105-108 whilst idling at the shops on a very hot day (36 deg)

    Went down to under 90 once I started to move.

    So things I have done since but to no avail.

    1. Checked temp with different gauge & sender, no change
    2. checked thermostat, was working Ok. Replaced with new one anyway.
    3. Replaced radiator, no change
    4. replaced viscous fan (it seemed locked on) with a Davis Craig thermo, no change
    5. Pulled off headers & welded cracks, also checked cat, it was ok. Ran it with muffler not connected , no change.
    6. Took it back to the guys that rebuilt the motor 2 years ago, thinking maybe water pump. Lost faith in them once they said it was running Ok & at 77 deg. Thats funny I said , my digital gauge says 93 & the thermostat is 82 deg.!
    7. Plumbed in a Davis Craig electric water pump, no change. could actually see the water flowing in the radiator from left to right but I suspect it may be only circulating the water through the upper manifold & not the block. If I take the EWP off I cannot see any movement of the water at all.
    8. Changed o2 sensor, no change.

    SO any thoughts before I get someone to strip down the front end & replace the water pump? Can they fail? it doesnt leak or make any bad noises etc.

    cheers guys
    Last edited by Ian Sharpe; 27-03-16, 09:32 AM.
    NS shorty 3.8l petrol with winch, front/rear E-lockers
    NT shorty 3.2l tdi, pretty stock with rear locker
  • stumagoo
    Valued Member
    • Jun 2014
    • 2064
    • Perth WA S.O.R

    #2
    water pumps can fail - though its not a normal thing, happens when either the bearings go and they leak but normally can still pump, or if they have poor water used in them and it corrodes the blades of the pump, this would normally happen along with other components deteriorating - core plugs, radiator, heater core etc. if the originaly water pump was suspect and reused it may be a possibility but its unlikely.

    Other possibilities is a partially blocked radiator and water galleries inside the engine. and the dreaded head gasket possibility. there are more but you have covered the bulk of them. remember stock waterpump wont flow until thermostat opens.
    1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
    *** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
    1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
    .

    Comment

    • Ian Sharpe
      Valued Member
      • Nov 2000
      • 2176
      • Tasmania

      #3
      Originally posted by stumagoo View Post

      Other possibilities is a partially blocked radiator and water galleries inside the engine. and the dreaded head gasket possibility. there are more but you have covered the bulk of them. remember stock waterpump wont flow until thermostat opens.
      I also ran it without thermostat no difference. I doubt head gasket as I can see no bubbles & also I dont seem to lose any water. Blocked galleries inside engine could be a worry though.
      NS shorty 3.8l petrol with winch, front/rear E-lockers
      NT shorty 3.2l tdi, pretty stock with rear locker

      Comment

      • Jeffwatkins
        Guest
        • Apr 2015
        • 787
        • Jamisontown NSW

        #4
        Originally posted by Ian Sharpe View Post
        I also ran it without thermostat no difference. I doubt head gasket as I can see no bubbles & also I dont seem to lose any water. Blocked galleries inside engine could be a worry though.

        Don't know about water quality in Braidwood but in a job I had many years ago I used to test the water quality in some country towns. Cootamundra/Leeton/Wagga etc were really bad as is a lot of WA is. The coils in the diesel fired burners clogged and developed pin holes. But with you being on a farm my guess is you have tank water. Do you use that in your radiator?

        Comment

        • geopaj
          Valued Member
          • Jul 2007
          • 2756
          • Adelaide

          #5
          So, to clarify, it's only getting hot when idling or when going slow in low range?

          This would suggest that the cooling system has capacity to cool adequately if/when thee is enough airflow.

          I'd strongly suggest you revisit the viscous fan and shroud and remove all the add-ons (electric fans are known to not produce as much airflow as a mechanical fans).
          Silver NT VRX Di-D

          ARB bullbar | snorkel | Bushskinz & Boo’s guards | UltraGauge MX | 2" lift | Cooper AT3 LT's | dual battery | Superwinch X9 | 80ltr diesel tank | 22ltr water tank | aux trans cooler | MM Lockup Mate | GME UHF | locker/TC mod | SPV EGR | rear LED work light | rhino platform | ARB awning | rear drawers ... & plenty of scratches

          My Build Thread - HERE

          Previously - NL Pajero (now owned by Forum member 'Gemster')

          Comment

          • Ian Sharpe
            Valued Member
            • Nov 2000
            • 2176
            • Tasmania

            #6
            Originally posted by Jeffwatkins View Post
            Don't know about water quality in Braidwood but in a job I had many years ago I used to test the water quality in some country towns. Cootamundra/Leeton/Wagga etc were really bad as is a lot of WA is. The coils in the diesel fired burners clogged and developed pin holes. But with you being on a farm my guess is you have tank water. Do you use that in your radiator?
            yeah tank water
            NS shorty 3.8l petrol with winch, front/rear E-lockers
            NT shorty 3.2l tdi, pretty stock with rear locker

            Comment

            • Ian Sharpe
              Valued Member
              • Nov 2000
              • 2176
              • Tasmania

              #7
              Originally posted by geopaj View Post
              So, to clarify, it's only getting hot when idling or when going slow in low range?

              This would suggest that the cooling system has capacity to cool adequately if/when thee is enough airflow.

              I'd strongly suggest you revisit the viscous fan and shroud and remove all the add-ons (electric fans are known to not produce as much airflow as a mechanical fans).
              no, I can be scooting along the highway , hit an incline & up she goes, eg the day I took in into Queanbeyan to have it checked by the engine guys, it was 3 degrees ambient, Up doughboy hill & it hit 98. Goes back to under 90 when under not much load.

              The thermo fan does work ok, & cools it down once it comes on. WHen i put on the thermo, I actually refitted the bottom section of the shroud that had to come off if you put a body lift on the NLs. SO now I have full shroud where before I didnt.

              Seriosuly giving me the s***s, big time, especially after all the $$ I have pit into this thing.
              NS shorty 3.8l petrol with winch, front/rear E-lockers
              NT shorty 3.2l tdi, pretty stock with rear locker

              Comment

              • geopaj
                Valued Member
                • Jul 2007
                • 2756
                • Adelaide

                #8
                Originally posted by Ian Sharpe View Post
                Originally posted by geopaj View Post
                So, to clarify, it's only getting hot when idling or when going slow in low range?

                This would suggest that the cooling system has capacity to cool adequately if/when thee is enough airflow.

                I'd strongly suggest you revisit the viscous fan and shroud and remove all the add-ons (electric fans are known to not produce as much airflow as a mechanical fans).
                no, I can be scooting along the highway , hit an incline & up she goes, eg the day I took in into Queanbeyan to have it checked by the engine guys, it was 3 degrees ambient, Up doughboy hill & it hit 98. Goes back to under 90 when under not much load.

                The thermo fan does work ok, & cools it down once it comes on. WHen i put on the thermo, I actually refitted the bottom section of the shroud that had to come off if you put a body lift on the NLs. SO now I have full shroud where before I didnt.

                Seriosuly giving me the s***s, big time, especially after all the $$ I have pit into this thing.
                Sorry, it's a bit hard to diagnose via the internet.

                Have you done the "basics" such as checking the air con condenser for mechanical airflow blockages (ie mud, bugs, etc) ?
                Silver NT VRX Di-D

                ARB bullbar | snorkel | Bushskinz & Boo’s guards | UltraGauge MX | 2" lift | Cooper AT3 LT's | dual battery | Superwinch X9 | 80ltr diesel tank | 22ltr water tank | aux trans cooler | MM Lockup Mate | GME UHF | locker/TC mod | SPV EGR | rear LED work light | rhino platform | ARB awning | rear drawers ... & plenty of scratches

                My Build Thread - HERE

                Previously - NL Pajero (now owned by Forum member 'Gemster')

                Comment

                • Ian Sharpe
                  Valued Member
                  • Nov 2000
                  • 2176
                  • Tasmania

                  #9
                  Originally posted by geopaj View Post
                  Sorry, it's a bit hard to diagnose via the internet.

                  Have you done the "basics" such as checking the air con condenser for mechanical airflow blockages (ie mud, bugs, etc) ?
                  yeah , did that when I had the radiator out.

                  guess I'll have to get the front end torn down & pump replaced.
                  NS shorty 3.8l petrol with winch, front/rear E-lockers
                  NT shorty 3.2l tdi, pretty stock with rear locker

                  Comment

                  • damo03
                    Member
                    • Dec 2012
                    • 146
                    • Newcastle NSW &Melbourne VIC

                    #10
                    Can you get to a cooling specialist? They might be able to determine the cause? Sounds weird that it's suddenly a problem. My NL never goes who've half even in traffic at 40deg with aircon on.
                    2012 NW with some fruit

                    Comment

                    • Ian Sharpe
                      Valued Member
                      • Nov 2000
                      • 2176
                      • Tasmania

                      #11
                      Originally posted by damo03 View Post
                      Can you get to a cooling specialist? They might be able to determine the cause? Sounds weird that it's suddenly a problem. My NL never goes who've half even in traffic at 40deg with aircon on.

                      yeah im booked in to natrad next week.
                      NS shorty 3.8l petrol with winch, front/rear E-lockers
                      NT shorty 3.2l tdi, pretty stock with rear locker

                      Comment

                      • MTN-KAT
                        Valued Member
                        • Jun 2009
                        • 1190
                        • Gold Coast

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Ian Sharpe View Post
                        yeah im booked in to natrad next week.
                        Hi Ian, pls tell, what was the result of Natrad visit and what was the cause for the "intermittent" overheating. With thanx.
                        99 NL Escape 3.5L V6 LWB Wagon, "Aisin Auto", MM Alum Protector Bar, MM factory 'steel' underbody protector plates, Engine oil cooler, Transmission oil cooler, Side rails, Flares, MM Alloy wheels, HANKOOK Dynapro ATM LT tyres, Aftermarket Alarm, MM A.I.S. HPR15 Penrite engine oil. Penrite LS140 diff oil with 250ml LIMSLIP additive 7098.

                        Comment

                        • Ian Sharpe
                          Valued Member
                          • Nov 2000
                          • 2176
                          • Tasmania

                          #13
                          Originally posted by MTN-KAT View Post
                          Hi Ian, pls tell, what was the result of Natrad visit and what was the cause for the "intermittent" overheating. With thanx.

                          they replaced the water pump with a complete pump including the housing. All seems good now, however the 'old' pump looked OK, but he said that the risk you run if you only replace 1/2 of the pump (which did happen) is that the tolerances can be out of whack & the pump may not perform 100% .

                          All seems good now but the outside temps have dropped now too. Guess next summer will tell.

                          cheers
                          NS shorty 3.8l petrol with winch, front/rear E-lockers
                          NT shorty 3.2l tdi, pretty stock with rear locker

                          Comment

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