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1999 GLS Suspension Quote

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  • kryzak260
    Junior Member
    • Sep 2013
    • 20
    • Perth

    1999 GLS Suspension Quote

    Took the Paj in for a proper wheel alignment at Pedders yesterday after the tyre guys said they couldn't adjust one part of the alignment to stop me shooting off to the left side of the road if i took my hands off the wheel. Came back and they said that they wouldnt be able to align it up because after doing a "tech check" they found a list as long as my arm that needed to be replaced

    They reckon:
    • RHF Shock Absorber is soft, lacking control
    • Both front lower ball joints have play
    • Both outer tie rods have play
    • Both inner tie rods have play
    • Idler arm has play
    • Pitman arm has play
    • Both front wheel bearings have play


    Their quote:
    • 2x Trakryder foam cell shocks - $382
    • 2x Ball Joints - $150
    • 2x Tie Rod Ends - $82
    • 2x Tie Rod Ends - $90
    • 1x Idler Arm - $173
    • 1x Pitman Arm - $87
    • Wheel Bearing repack - $220
    • 6 hours labour - $792
    • Wheel alighnment - $154
    • TOTAL - $2130


    Ouch!

    So, i dont doubt that alot of this stuff is probably shagged because the paj has done 193k kms, 5k of which since ive owned her, and she is all over the road like a mad woman's shit at high speed (110+ and overtaking) but im wondering if they might be taking the piss here? Ive always wondered if Pedders maybe pad out their report in these "suspension and safety checks" to get them some business.

    Is any of this stuff doable at home without a hoist? Ive not dabbled much with suspension before, but im pretty handy mechanically. Is there anything else worth doing while i am down there (or paying for the rest of it to be done)? Im tempted to put in a 2" lift while im there if im going to replace 2 shocks anyway, and the springs and torsion bars are probably originals and might be nearing the end of their life too?.

    Massive wall of text, sorry about that - thanks for any advice you guys have

    Cheers
  • Pauly Faulkner
    Valued Member
    • Feb 2012
    • 6561
    • Maitland, NSW

    #2
    All of that can be done at home easily. Even if you bought the parts yourself from a different source, did the really easy ones and went in and had them do the rest you'd be nearly a thousand dollars better off.
    Not sure what it is with pedders but as soon as I hear "had a safety check done at pedders" it almost always follows with an insane price quote.

    If you are not all that mechanicly minded but know how to change a tire then half that can be done at home. Just let them do the bearing repack and alignment.

    There is a kit from blupac with all balljoints and tie rods etc for fairly cheap, I'll find the link shortly for you.
    97' NK 3ltr GLX LWB Manual | 3" lift | Wildcat headers | K&N air filter | 2.8 crawl gears | 4Terrain clutch | 2.25" exhaust | Factory locker rear | TJM 10,000lb winch | TJM snorkel
    97' NL GLS LWB Auto | 6G75 3.8ltr | Redback Headers

    Comment

    • schnitzel
      Valued Member
      • Dec 2009
      • 2477
      • Bendigo

      #3
      all of that list is doable at home apart from the front end alignment.

      $220 to repack front bearings is an absolute rip off, did an Nj a couple of weeks back , new bearings ( all 4) cost me $120 grease was half a tube so about $4 and about 2 hours work.

      Front shocks I can supply dobinsons for $250 delivered about an hour and a half to install.

      would say maximum parts cost for 2 ball joints, 2 tierods, pitman and idler at full retail would be $600 and you can do better if you shop around
      Current vehicles: 2017 Toyota Hilux, 2022 Hyundai Kona,2022 VW T-Cross1995 3.5l nj Pajero , 1995 2.8td Mitsubishi Delica,2011 , 2 x 1971 ta 22 celicas, 74 ta 22 celica, ke 35 corollla with 18rg, 95 gtr 1000, 79 leyland terrier bus ( 350 chev),1978 ke 35 corolla, 1980 ra 40 celica 18rgeu,2011 agricat jd495,chamberlain g6 plus a few other odds and ends

      Comment

      • Bogger
        Unregistered as asked
        • May 2011
        • 1898

        #4
        That place must be located on a very high hill

        Comment

        • Pauly Faulkner
          Valued Member
          • Feb 2012
          • 6561
          • Maitland, NSW

          #5


          Here it is, says NL but it's for NH, NJ and NK as well.
          Just need to get a pitman arm seperate.
          Since you're doing ball joints you might as well grab new wheel bearings instead of just repacking and take the whole knuckle off.
          To do it all yourself with Schnitzel's shocks you're looking at well under $800 and that includes wheel alignment and buying yourself lunch.
          97' NK 3ltr GLX LWB Manual | 3" lift | Wildcat headers | K&N air filter | 2.8 crawl gears | 4Terrain clutch | 2.25" exhaust | Factory locker rear | TJM 10,000lb winch | TJM snorkel
          97' NL GLS LWB Auto | 6G75 3.8ltr | Redback Headers

          Comment

          • pajeroman3lt
            Member
            • Nov 2012
            • 214
            • taree

            #6
            Yep, then prices are ludicrous .

            Comment

            • kryzak260
              Junior Member
              • Sep 2013
              • 20
              • Perth

              #7
              Originally posted by Pauly Faulkner View Post
              Not sure what it is with pedders but as soon as I hear "had a safety check done at pedders" it almost always follows with an insane price quote.
              Yeah, ive always avoided them because i saw them as a rip off franchise sort of deal, but this particular branch was recommended highly from an independent suspension shop that couldn't fit me in for the alignment for 4 weeks or more.

              I will take a look at the link you provided and look at doing it myself so thanks for that. Told myself I couldn't be bothered with the big jobs any more after the timing belt change at Christmas, but I don't like losing $1000+ for the privilege!

              Are there any special tools (pullers, prybars, etc) that i need for this job?

              Thanks everyone

              Comment

              • Pauly Faulkner
                Valued Member
                • Feb 2012
                • 6561
                • Maitland, NSW

                #8
                Since you are replacing the joints you crack loose, you won't need any assistance from ball joint/tie rod splitters. Just wack them loose with the hammer (sometimes a wack on the sides helps unseize them as they are all tapered joints).

                The pitman arm is the hardest as it's a tapered spline that's hard to wack and shouldn't be whaled upon with a massive hammer as the pitman shaft is apart of steering box so a pitman puller(jaw type puller) may be needed there. Soak the spline with innox a day or two prior and make sure you have a socket or spanner big enough for it as it's a big nut (breaker bar and socket is best).
                97' NK 3ltr GLX LWB Manual | 3" lift | Wildcat headers | K&N air filter | 2.8 crawl gears | 4Terrain clutch | 2.25" exhaust | Factory locker rear | TJM 10,000lb winch | TJM snorkel
                97' NL GLS LWB Auto | 6G75 3.8ltr | Redback Headers

                Comment

                • Pauly Faulkner
                  Valued Member
                  • Feb 2012
                  • 6561
                  • Maitland, NSW

                  #9
                  What really bothers me about your quote is the six hours labour.
                  Would take me less then 3hrs for all that.
                  Did wheel bearings and ball joints for an nl a couple weeks ago and did both sides in just under an hour and a half.


                  P.s when doing lower ball joints make sure to unwind the torsionbars right off or the lower control arm can fly downwards.
                  Some people place jack stands under control arm securely but I personally find this dangerous.
                  97' NK 3ltr GLX LWB Manual | 3" lift | Wildcat headers | K&N air filter | 2.8 crawl gears | 4Terrain clutch | 2.25" exhaust | Factory locker rear | TJM 10,000lb winch | TJM snorkel
                  97' NL GLS LWB Auto | 6G75 3.8ltr | Redback Headers

                  Comment

                  • mat02920
                    Member
                    • Oct 2012
                    • 130
                    • Brisbane

                    #10
                    kryzak260, having seen other peoples quotes on here I decided to start replacing suspension parts myself a few weeks ago, with parts bought on ebay. I had no experience with suspension and it really isn't that difficult... seized joints can set you back in time. At least they did for me

                    I learned two things

                    1) don't hit the thread of tie rod ends or ball joints with a hammer. If you do leave the castellated nut at the end of the thread to protect it just in case you need to do it back up and;

                    2) heat (in the form of my wifes' creme brulee blow torch) and a whack with a large hammer will get most things free. Two hammers even better!

                    Have a crack. The way I see it, the more you know about the car the more likely you will get yourself out of sticky situations when you're out in the middle of nowhere.
                    1994 NJ, 3L Auto V6
                    2005 NP, 3.8L Auto V6

                    Comment

                    • TheTaipan
                      Banned
                      • Jan 2009
                      • 2649
                      • sydney

                      #11
                      Businesses I avoid.

                      Bob Jane.

                      Harvey Norman.

                      Pedders.

                      Domain.

                      Midas.

                      Ultra tune.

                      Kmart auto.

                      Plus anyone that offers 'free brake check', 'free cooling system check', 'free 51 point inspections'.

                      Comment

                      • geopaj
                        Valued Member
                        • Jul 2007
                        • 2756
                        • Adelaide

                        #12
                        Mate, just about every vehicle with 100,000km + will come jack from Pedders with a similar report.

                        I would look at finding an 'old school' wheel aligner (most wheel aligner a won't do camber on a gen 2 Pajero as it requires shims, they will only do toe in - in Adelaide anyway). I would expect to pay about $100 for a shim alignment.

                        Do you know any local good crash repairers? Many farm out wheel aligning so will be able to give you the details of decent companies.

                        I would get another wheel aligner to look at the car before you start spending cash.

                        Tires can also have an impact on wandering and 'rail roading'. I would swap the front and rear tires, and inflate them to 35-40psi (I'd try 40 first) and see how it drives. What tires does it have (brand/tread/size)?

                        ps out of interest, my NL has 325,000km but is still running the original ball joints/pitman arm/etc (I've had it for years and religiously pump them with grease). Mine drives straight and nice. I drive brand new 'company' cars every day and even compared to them, mine is good)
                        Last edited by geopaj; 30-03-14, 10:13 AM.
                        Silver NT VRX Di-D

                        ARB bullbar | snorkel | Bushskinz & Boo’s guards | UltraGauge MX | 2" lift | Cooper AT3 LT's | dual battery | Superwinch X9 | 80ltr diesel tank | 22ltr water tank | aux trans cooler | MM Lockup Mate | GME UHF | locker/TC mod | SPV EGR | rear LED work light | rhino platform | ARB awning | rear drawers ... & plenty of scratches

                        My Build Thread - HERE

                        Previously - NL Pajero (now owned by Forum member 'Gemster')

                        Comment

                        • Pauly Faulkner
                          Valued Member
                          • Feb 2012
                          • 6561
                          • Maitland, NSW

                          #13
                          He's replacing all of them Mat so he can take nut off and just wack them out.
                          I would replace upper bj even though not listed.

                          Check the spindle shaft bolts are nice and tight as well (these hold upper control arm to the shock absorber tower on chassis, the bolt heads can be seen behind top of the shock).
                          97' NK 3ltr GLX LWB Manual | 3" lift | Wildcat headers | K&N air filter | 2.8 crawl gears | 4Terrain clutch | 2.25" exhaust | Factory locker rear | TJM 10,000lb winch | TJM snorkel
                          97' NL GLS LWB Auto | 6G75 3.8ltr | Redback Headers

                          Comment

                          • dhula
                            Valued Member
                            • Sep 2012
                            • 1196
                            • South of Perth

                            #14
                            Get yourself one of these BJ separators --> http://www.toolmart.com.au/2210.html (not sure where in Perth you are, just picked a store - no affiliation) which IMO will pay for itself in time and effort saved.

                            Have a look at Covs for parts you need. Bit more exy than eBay but still reasonable (cheaper than Pedders from what I've seen) and can get parts now kinda thing instead of waiting. Bonus is that my local store has 1 current Paj owner and 1 ex Paj owner so makes it easy when I'm chasing stuff.
                            Last edited by dhula; 30-03-14, 12:22 PM.
                            2010 NT Activ, DiD+lazy shift. Bushskins+Boo's, Kings springs+Monroe shocks+Firestone Airbags, MM towbar, MM nudgebar.
                            2006 KJ Cherokee, CRD+lazy shift. Ironman springs and OME shocks, MoPar skids.

                            Comment

                            • mat02920
                              Member
                              • Oct 2012
                              • 130
                              • Brisbane

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Pauly Faulkner View Post
                              He's replacing all of them Mat so he can take nut off and just wack them out.
                              Fair point. I got myself into a situation however, where I couldn't separate the joint but needed the car the next day for work and wished I hadn't destroyed the thread because I couldn't put it back together.

                              You learn from your mistakes though. Had to get up extra early to take the wife to work so I could use her car.

                              How does the saying go?

                              'A smart man learns from his mistakes; a wise man learns from the mistake of others'?

                              I will never be wise
                              1994 NJ, 3L Auto V6
                              2005 NP, 3.8L Auto V6

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