what is this reservoir?

[chrisfarru]

Hi all,

Sorry for the stupid question, but can anyone tell me what this reservoir is? Is it the handbrake reservoir? The fluid in it is below minimum, so i was wondering what to use to top it up.

Thanks in advance
Chris

[mrbitchi]

Looks like the clutch fluid reservoir. Better top it up.

[Aussie_Dan]

That one is for the clutch!
Cheers, Dan.

[Merts]

That is the clutch fluid reservoir.

Top it up with Brake Fluid. (Type should be listed in your service manual)

If it is low it probably indicates a leak somewhere, pull the carpet away from the floor/firewall under the dash and check for leaking fluid there. The clutch master cylinder may need servicing or replacement. Alternatively there could be a leak at the slave cylinder which activates the clutch.

(My last Paj was a 93 manual 2.5L TDI)

[chrisfarru]

Thanks guys!

I'll fill it up for now, if it starts dropping I will investigate. No clutch issues at the moment.

Chris

[Merts]

Thanks guys!

I'll fill it up for now, if it starts dropping I will investigate. No clutch issues at the moment.

Chris

I would pull the carpet away from the firewall to check if it is leaking inside the cabin. If it is it will stain the carpet and strip the paint off the metal. (It did on mine anyway )

[chrisfarru]

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Quick look and shows that the master cylinder at the pedal is leaking.

Is it possible to just buy a seal kit and replace them? Is all the work done from the driver's well or do I need to access stuff from under the bonnet or under the car?

Thanks for any help
Chris

[Merts]

You should be able to get a kit with new piston seal and push rod boot.

I would suggest you buy a workshop manual (eg Gregorys) which will have pretty clear step by step instructions on doing most things including a clutch master cylinder.

You will need to disconnect the push rod from the clutch pedal inside the car, the rest will be done from the engine bay.

You won't need to get under the car until you bleed the system to remove any air that gets in the line when you have the master cylinder dismantled and/or off the car.

It would be worth checking that the slave cylinder is not leaking too, as you may need to replace the seals in it as well. (So maybe get under and have a look before you chase a kit or new master cylinder)

[Stevie-Ray]

You should be able to get a kit with new piston seal and push rod boot...

Agree with Merts on what he's said, except with a clutch master-cylinder that old & obviously been leaking for a while, may be better just replaced as slow leaks often indicate pitting in the surface of the bore which can't be fixed by new seals. Problem is that brake-fluid is hygroscopic (water absorbing) once moisture from the air enters the system & is there for long enough for corrosion to take hold, it's best to replace both the master-cylinder (on the firewall) & the slave-cylinder (on bell-housing under passenger footwell), plus vehicle isn't out of action for as long.
Know from experience with Mini Cooper'S'; replaced clutch-plate (real pita wth Mini's), only to have slave-seal leak a couple of days later, bore no good, new slave, not enough travel, back to shop for master-seal, bore no good, new master & finally success!

Steve

[Merts]

Problem is that brake-fluid is hygroscopic (water absorbing) once moisture from the air enters the system & is there for long enough for corrosion to take hold, it's best to replace both the master-cylinder (on the firewall) & the slave-cylinder (on bell-housing under passenger footwell), plus vehicle isn't out of action for as long.

Steve is probably right about replacing both master and slave complete units. It is an easier and quicker job to just replace them rather than having to clean and repair the old ones and remount them.

Extra points for correctly using the term "hygroscopic"

[chrisfarru]

thanks a lot for all the help.

Unfortunately i am on a tight budget and the pajero will soon be heading for a trip to qld from sydney and back.

I bought a master cylinder seal kit from repco and will rebuild the whole thing. If the piston is scored it will mean a new unit then. I will have a look for thecondition of the slave cylinder.

When it comes to bleeding the system, is it possible to drain all the fluid from the slave cylinder and then bleed from the master?

I have a haynes manual and its instructions are very vague with barely any pics. Anyone knows if teres an online version of the gregory manual?

[dolphin]

not sure on Pajero but i can say the Mitsubishi Lancer Slave Cylinder and Master Cylinders are cheaper to buy as a complete unit as opposed to buying the overhaul kit. work that one out.

[Merts]

thanks a lot for all the help.

When it comes to bleeding the system, is it possible to drain all the fluid from the slave cylinder and then bleed from the master?

I have a haynes manual and its instructions are very vague with barely any pics. Anyone knows if teres an online version of the gregory manual?

Hi again Chris,

I have a Haynes manual, number 68765. It has pretty detailed and clear instructions on how to bleed the system. Section 8. Page 8-6, sub section 8.

[dolphin]

you can bleed anything anytime. say you want to drain out all old fluid from the slave cylinder for eg; pump the clutch pedal and hold down whilst someone opens up the slave cyl bleed nipple until all is out then do up this nipple and pump / hold again. keep the master cylinder resevoir full at all times. if your doing a new master cylinder you must start bleeding from this cylinder then go down to the slave cylinder .

[Stevie-Ray]

you can bleed anything anytime. say you want to drain out all old fluid from the slave cylinder for eg; pump the clutch pedal and hold down whilst someone opens up the slave cyl bleed nipple until all is out then do up this nipple and pump / hold again. keep the master cylinder resevoir full at all times. if your doing a new master cylinder you must start bleeding from this cylinder then go down to the slave cylinder .

There was in expensive kit to bleed clutch & brake lines single-handedly, (basically a clear-tube which you put on slave bleeder-valve, & the other end with a valve, in a jar of brake-fluid), but not sure whether parts-stores still sell them?

Steve