View Full Version : NA Pajero SWB Body Block Lift

17-11-09, 11:00 PM
I have just installed some lift blocks in my SWB Pajero and this a short run through of what i did, it only took about two hours but i haven't fitted my new bullbar or modified my rear bar to lift it two inches to match. YET!

I started by finding the tops of the bolts the there are eight bolts (four either side, they are in the exact same position just on the opposite side of the car) the first pair of bolts (I'll start from the front and work to the rear) are behind the radiator support either side of the radiator and you'll need have someone hold the top of the bolt because it spins
http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3879&stc=1&d=1258460726 and the you can push the bolts through with a screw driver that is smaller than the bolt
and the next pair of bolts is under the carpet near the A pillars (near the front of the drivers/passenger door) you will need to remove the door sill plate and lift the carpet the bolt are covered with rubber plugs, same deal get some one to hold the top of the bolts because they will spin
the next pair is on the vertical piece of floor just below front of the rear seat you will have to unbutton the carpet from the floor
and these bolts have a special piece that makes so you don't have to hold the top of the bolts
the last pair of bolts are behind the rear lights and you will have to remove the tail lights which are held in by four phillip head screws once the tail light is removed you can unbolt it from the bottom as these bolts have the same piece so they won't spin
Then i blocked the wheels up and lifted the body of with a jack in the middle of the car on either side (one side at a time) inserted the blocks and lowered the body the made small adjustments to fit the bolts which i just got from my local bolts store (gave them the old bolts and told them i needed them two inches longer) and I tact welded some tabs onto the four bolts in the rear so i could do them up the way they came out.
Didn't have any issues with brake line length or with fuel filler neck just moved with the body only problems i can see is-
-I need to make the rubber hose from the motor to the steel brake booster line longer
-Make the hole for the 4wd stick shifter a bit larger
-Drop the radiator (just going to drill some new holes and drop it).
I think that's about it but if you can think of anymore just message me and I'll add it in.
Had more pics but it would only give me five pics, message me if you want anymore.

17-11-09, 11:26 PM
can we see some before / after shots please mate?


17-11-09, 11:31 PM
I'll throw some up in my gallery when i get her out of the shed-
As i mentioned they won't let me put anymore pics up in this thread.

18-11-09, 03:22 PM
for the radator you could take the bottom half of the fan sheild? oh and can you show a pic of the new blocks installed?

18-11-09, 05:28 PM
Hasn't got a fan shield it's a 2.6ltr, didn't have one when i got it.
i'll put the photo's up now in-
and here a link to a earlier thread with me and OlgieD

18-11-09, 11:44 PM
Looks good. Quick work finishing that in two hours. Now you can remove your fuel tank and have a two inch strip welded into it for a longer range.

Disclaimer: Obviously I'm recommending you have someone who knows what he's doing do it, wouldn't want you or anyone else to blow up :p

Those look like 2 inch blocks, right? Up here it's usually recommended to move at least two of the body mounts up, i.e. cut them off the frame and re-weld them higher up, usually the two under the firewall. Since the body is now sitting on "stilts", there is a risk that the blocks will bend the mounting points in the body.

I plan on lifting the body on my NL lwb by about 60-75mm, to fit 38" tires. My plan is to have someone move four body mounts up, the two closest to the firewall and the two at the rear. I'm still debating the exact amount of lift, lots of factors come into play, among other things the height of the door in my fathers garage :D

Just thought I'd share that recommendation. I know people have gotten into problems with their body lift up here when they have just used blocks.

19-11-09, 11:36 AM
Good idea if you want to but i have seen plenty of 2" kits and no problems so should be right. And i don't think i'd have a use for 38's to many modifications to make i them fit so i'll just get some 33's.

20-11-09, 12:05 AM
Just a suggestion. Obviously this becomes more of a problem the higher and narrower the blocks are. Your blocks do look a tad narrow though, what diameter are they?

I agree that you probably don't have use for 38s, they are mainly a snow tire, when you need flotation. If my geography serves me right, that's probably not a condition you see too much of?

20-11-09, 06:39 PM
That's why i stuck with the 2" and not any higher not sure of the diameter, they are structural alloy so if i get any issues I'll write up on it. And i saw the top gear arctic episode we don't have any of that.

21-11-09, 10:29 AM
I’m looking to buy a set of lifting blocks and there are two going on ebay right now. One is polyethylene and the structural alloy (I’m guessing aluminium) and both of them are priced very similar.
Do you recommend any one in particular? The polyethylene blocks don’t have crush tubes but they should be strong enough to take the weight of the body and load, on the other hand the metal ones will be stronger but I’m a bit worried about transferring vibrations.

21-11-09, 12:51 PM
I'd say alloy because you'll still have the rubber body mount under the new lift block and from what I'm told polyethylene have to have crush tubes to be legal.

21-11-09, 02:23 PM
most of the lift blocks ive seen are the poly blocks.. think poly would absorb more that the metal but then if you put them on the orignal rubber that the body is on it would absorb it too?

22-11-09, 07:39 AM
^ true. I’m totally undecided. I’m going to buy it today, might close my eyes and pick one.
I’ve been told that on Patrols they can break with chassis flex. Poly has some give, aluminium will crack.
Are you sure blocks without crush tubes aren’t road worthy? And you used both the upper & lower rubbers didn’t you?

22-11-09, 01:10 PM
I'd say that it would be hard to crack structural alloy but on the other hand if they sell polyethylene then they must work but i wouldn't use them with out crush tube!

03-05-10, 08:23 PM
What were the size of the new bolts you purchased? Length and Width?