View Full Version : Fixing hinges on rear door

04-11-09, 10:01 AM
Since the Pajero was going into the garage to get fender flares fitted, I decided to get the rear door hinges fixed. I figured I could remove the rear door and the hinges in an hour or so. Didn't turn out quite that way. First problem was actually getting the Pajero into the garage. This worked out after I deflated the tires, knew that extra stemless deflation valve would come in handy :)

As you can see the upper hinge is in pretty poor state.

After getting the Pajero inside the garage, I had to remove the rearmost right hand seat and the trim on that portion of the interior, just to get at the connection for the rear door electrics. Then I had all sorts of fun removing the stopper that goes under the door. Ended up taking a grinder to one bolt. That scared the other bolt loose I think. Then unbolting the door and enlisting my brother to help me with the last two bolts, while I held up the door.

After the door was removed, the door trim had to be removed to get at the bolts holding the hinges in the door, three per hinge. Finally the door stopper pin had to be knocked out. Back of the truck is a mess with the door, various tools and trim all piled in there.

The hinges weigh a ton and look about big enough to hold up a fence gate, but then again I think the door weighs more then a big fence gate, especially with the 33" spare hanging on it.

All in all the job took four hours, but part of that time was spent desperately searching for a 12mm top, cursing the fact that the toolset I found in my fathers garage had two 15mm tops and no 12mm, drinking tea, cursing Mitsubishi for putting the connectors half a meter inside the car, behind a seat and trim, smoking, cursing a bit more.

Now I just have to get a the hinges sleeved and a new pin fitted and then refit and adjust the door. Meanwhile I'll work on fitting the fender flares.

04-11-09, 02:30 PM
man that looks like a big job there! I spray mine with wd40 once a month to keep the loose..

04-11-09, 08:16 PM
man that looks like a big job there! I spray mine with wd40 once a month to keep the loose..

Well, it's not that they aren't loose, they are in fact too loose ;) The upper one is just completely worn, both the pin and the hinge itself. Eleven years of swinging that barn door with a spare tire hanging on it back and forth just takes its toll on the hinges.

Mind you, wd40 , great as it is, is not really a lubricant, but it might be the best thing you can actually get in these hinges since there's no provision for greasing them. I'll ask the guy who is fixing my hinges how he greases them, he took the lower hinge just to grease it.

green monster
05-11-09, 05:32 PM
lanolin oil boys,,,,,,

05-11-09, 07:37 PM
in the 3rd pic mine has a little hole in the side of the top half where you can spray wd4o or what ever you want to..

05-11-09, 07:48 PM
Mine have absolutely no provision for greasing them. Just got them back from the guy who was fixing them, the upper one was re-sleeved and the pin replaced, now it's like new. The lower one was good and just needed lubricating. Somehow he managed to grease them and said I shouldn't have to worry about it for a while, since you can't get grease in, apparently it can't get out either. He said the main reason they go is that they rust stuck. The thing to do is apparently to use your rear door and get whatever oil you can in them, at least some of it may penetrate.
I wish they just had an old fashioned grease nipple on them.

06-11-09, 07:38 AM
So I got my hinges back and loosely fitted the door. Since I was alone I didn't adjust it yet. Also, somehow I locked it and haven't been able to unlock it, silly me. I'll figure that out tomorrow and then get an unlucky family member to help me adjust it.

The door with the hinges fitted. Cleaned it up a bit in the hard to reach places.

Upper and lower hinge bolts, if anyone is interested. I figure those are good pictures to have lying around. You can also see the trim fastener I accidentally broke off removing the trim.

Upper hinge fitted, with the stopper reattached.

Another thing I'm fixing while it's in there. I don't really know what the former owner was thinking having that fitted. Damn thing is a plow. The lwb Paj's booty is already big enough. I've removed it (mostly) and will be reattaching it without the lowering steel plate. Haven't measured how much that gains me, but it's considerable. Eventually I want a 2" hitch receiver, but that has to happen after the body lift, since I want it right there, in the middle of the hole in the bumper and the bumper moves up with the body lift.

07-11-09, 08:50 AM
Door is on again, but still not adjusted. Replaced the two bolts holding the stopper thingy to the bottom of the door. They have a very low head and are grade 4 (I think that means they're made out of butter). Replaced them with some 8.8 bolts.

Also finished my little side project of raising my plow. Already plowed the center of enough trails...
That's WD40 leaking all over the place in the first picture. Those bolts were stuck tight. Replaced the bolts with new 8.8 bolts.

Eventually I want a 2 inch hitch receiver.

08-11-09, 11:31 AM
I did mine a few years ago. Just removed the hinges, and punched out the old pins. I turned up some new pins on my lathe out some 4140 offcuts, and then knurled the last 1/2" so I could drive them back in with a strong interference fit. They work beautifully.

10-11-09, 09:27 AM
Wish I had the equipment and skills for that. The guy I got to fix them put new sleeves in the upper one and a new pin. The lower one was fine and just greased. They're in now and adjusted, door works great. It's like getting a new car, before only me and mechanically inclined strong people could close it, now a child could close it.

Moving on to my fender flares.

08-03-10, 08:02 PM
lanolin oil boys,,,,,,

I agree here. I spray Lanotec in mine, I swap the nozzle for one off another tin so I can use the straw like attachment and squirt buggery through the little hole in each hinge. Works a treat, if a little messy.:)