NX Alternator - BCDC1240

[pauld]

Hi Guys,

I have a BCDC1240 (standard model) from my current Pajero.

Can this be installed in my new NX Pajero arriving in a few weeks or is the only option to upgrade it to the -LV model?

I have read things about driving with parking lights on, diodes in fuse positions etc etc (to raise voltage) but is this applicable to the NX?

Thanks in advance.

[Dicko1]

Hi Guys,

I have a BCDC1240 (standard model) from my current Pajero.

Can this be installed in my new NX Pajero arriving in a few weeks or is the only option to upgrade it to the -LV model?

I have read things about driving with parking lights on, diodes in fuse positions etc etc (to raise voltage) but is this applicable to the NX?

Thanks in advance.

Give redarc a call and speak to the experts.....

[pauld]

Have sent them an email just now but also after independent knowledge or experience

[iGBH]

Have you considered a alternator voltage booster fuse?

ie http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubish...-/221782187395

I've spoken to the manufacturer of my DBS (traxide) and this was the recommended way to go...

[pauld]

I read somewhere in here that these diode fuses won't work for the Pajero alternator....
I have decided to get the new Pajero (2 weeks) and then monitor the voltage & then decide what to do. I have also read that leaving parking lights / headlights / A/C on will do the trick.

Thanks for your thought.

[marquis]

Small wide input 12 to 15V step up connected to your +IGN

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-DC-DC-Adjustable-Step-up-Boost-Power-Converter-Module-XL6009-Replace-LM2577-/321691921700

Encase in a small box filled with silicon - should cost like $10

[2bad4u]

Yes you can. I always had my air-cond on and it was fine. Although I have just removed mine because it was de rating too much with the heat under the bonnet. I now run an intervolt ebi pro which allows you to programme custom time/voltage for switching on/off.

[pauld]

Yes you can. I always had my air-cond on and it was fine. Although I have just removed mine because it was de rating too much with the heat under the bonnet. I now run an intervolt ebi pro which allows you to programme custom time/voltage for switching on/off.

Thanks for the confirmation. Mine will go under rear floor with batteries, which is where it is now in NP

[pauld]

Small wide input 12 to 15V step up connected to your +IGN

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-DC-DC-Adjustable-Step-up-Boost-Power-Converter-Module-XL6009-Replace-LM2577-/321691921700

Encase in a small box filled with silicon - should cost like $10

Good thinking but my Redarc is an up to 40A unit.

[pauld]

Our fridge is only in car for weekends away and holidays. No big deal to drive with headlights during these times, in fact I often do anyway. I will earth to body and that way it may hold the voltage up if a strong charge going through main negative when 'smart' alternator decides to wind back voltage after x run time (20 min odd I believe).

[marquis]

Good thinking but my Redarc is an up to 40A unit.

The 'blue' wire doesn't take much current...

[cookie]

I've had my NW for about a month now and have been monitoring the alternator voltage to decide what to do about a dual battery system and I've found no difference with the lights or air con on/off. I just did a 2000k trip and did some experimenting whilt cruising on the highway turning the lights and A/C on/off and didn't seem to make any difference. The voltage varies from around 13.6 to 14.5 whilst cruising, changing frequently with no obvious reasoning, presumably based on engine load. Maximum voltage is whilst braking.

[Dicko1]

I've had my NW for about a month now and have been monitoring the alternator voltage to decide what to do about a dual battery system and I've found no difference with the lights or air con on/off. I just did a 2000k trip and did some experimenting whilt cruising on the highway turning the lights and A/C on/off and didn't seem to make any difference. The voltage varies from around 13.6 to 14.5 whilst cruising, changing frequently with no obvious reasoning, presumably based on engine load. Maximum voltage is whilst braking.

Exactly as my 2014 NW does mate. You,ll have no problems with the redarc in the rear tub. I have the same set up but a 20amp redarc.

cheers

[pauld]

The 'blue' wire doesn't take much current...

Yep fair point, I had forgotten how the wiring was done.

[eucyblues]

I've had my NW for about a month now and have been monitoring the alternator voltage to decide what to do about a dual battery system and I've found no difference with the lights or air con on/off. I just did a 2000k trip and did some experimenting whilt cruising on the highway turning the lights and A/C on/off and didn't seem to make any difference. The voltage varies from around 13.6 to 14.5 whilst cruising, changing frequently with no obvious reasoning, presumably based on engine load. Maximum voltage is whilst braking.

I'm looking at this on the NX also - and based on my limited activity so far using an Ultragauge I have found the same results as cookie - I haven't seen the volts drop below 13 yet so it seems the std units with a 12.7v cutout should be fine for 99% of the time - I'm thinking I'll just put back my SBI12 instead of buying a DCDC unit..

-6m of 6B&S to the rear plus about 5m of 6mm2 (Jayco wire) to the van battery should still give me over 14V charge every time I go downhill