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AndyNH91
03-02-13, 11:45 AM
Hi Guys and Gals,

Twelve months ago when I decided to rebuild my Gen2 Pajero rather than scrap it I went over it with a fine tooth comb working out what repairs would need to be done to it for me to be happy with it.

The paint work was one thing I looked at, and it was in pretty good condition. Over the past twelve months though, to my dismay the top coat has given up on the bonnet, roof and c-pillars.

It's a pretty common problem, because I see plenty of vehicles of a similar age on the road driving around with faded paint.

So what are people doing about their fading paint and what are the costs involved? Are people:

a. putting it in the too hard basket and putting up with the fading paint?

b. getting someone to respray it?

c. or diving in and respraying it themselves? And if so, what paint system are they using (i.e. acrylic etc) and who's a trusted automotive paint manufacturer.

Cheers,

Andrew

Stevie-Ray
03-02-13, 12:38 PM
Usually it's the clear-coat that's polished off that makes it look faded, so if it's otherwise in good nick, cutting it back to the colour-coat on the rest, & redoing the clear-coat won't be too expensive! ;)

Steve :rolleyes:

Note; this is exactly what car-dealers do on trade-ins, & they make money on them every time!

dolphin
03-02-13, 04:14 PM
yes exactly what Steve said. how good does the paint work look when you hose it ?

JK017
03-02-13, 11:47 PM
In the past I have done a silver nissan bluebird that looked faded, due to degrigation of the clear coat. So:


I rubbed the bonnet and roof back with 2000 wet and dry.
Cleaned with prepsol and masked up the remainder of the car
Sprayed it with 2 coats of 2 pack clear.
Cost $80 for gravity feed gun, $150 for upol 2 pac clear, $20 misc bits and pieces.

As stated if the car looks good wet you can get away with this

captain_paj
04-02-13, 01:08 AM
I have never sprayed clear coat or had to repair it, so I did some research.

It seems your main concern is if the clear coat has lifted at all. If it has you are screwed.

As previously outlined - wiping down with water or grease and wax remover will show you what it will look like after spraying clear coat on.

If it looks like crap doing this, it will look like crap after clear coat, and your only option is a spray of base and a spray of clear.

Here's a YouTube vid that is quite helpful. The guy is a bit of a redneck but his argument seems to be valid as he backs it up with a demonstration of the concepts he discusses.

It's an hour long but it goes right into detail. I only watched the first half hour and then my internet dropped out. I've desperately got to replace one of my wireless bridges as it keeps dropping out...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgMr6zsPI6k

I did watch quite a number of videos from different professionals, and NONE of them recommended trying to repair a clear coat that had peeled.

Not trying to be an authority on the subject as I know stuff all about spraypainting - I resprayed my Dad's Bedford van 15 years ago and it looked like shit afterwards so don't take my word for ANYTHING - but from the research I have done for the past couple of hours, if it's peeled you are up shit creek, if it's faded, just the clear coat, with no compromisation down to the base coat, you should be able to restore it.

If the base coat has been exposed to the elements for any period of time it's stuffed. If the clear coat is peeling then there's a reason for that, and you have to stabilise it, which in doing that will compromise the base coat.

Please don't think I'm trying to be a smartarse, I just did a heap of research as I wanted to know for myself, and that's what I came up with.

If it hasn't peeled, just oxidised, you will probably be sweet just reducing the thickness of the clear coat and respraying.

Stevie-Ray
04-02-13, 09:05 PM
Good point about peeling capt.paj, as respraying is only worth it if the clearcoat is polished off relatively recently (or vehicle stored out of sun) as UV & weather then really attacks the base-coat. However, sadly what happens is that the owner's 'pride-&-joy' is washed & polished every week or two, then 'horrors-of-horrors', a 'mark' appears (usually on the roof) & it's at this point that either the owner releases he's gone through the clearcoat, or (more likely) they panic & get the buffing-machine & cutting-compound out to remove the 'mark'!?! :eek:
...An hour or so later the 'mark' has spread to a nice wide matte stripe down the middle of the roof no matter how much it's polished! :disappointed[1]:

After all the dings, dents, scrapes, scratches, etc. (not all my fault) collected on the vehicles I've owned over the years, paint-work on a 10+yr-old 4wd isn't going to look anything like new, so I try to keep it as thick as possible to protect the metal. Also means that when it comes to sale-time, there wont be surface-rust to deal with! :D

Steve :rolleyes:

AndyNH91
05-02-13, 09:06 PM
Thanks for the advice guys.

I live on a dirt road, so my car hasn't been polished to death, I think it's more likely just the elements taking their toll on the paint job; dust, uv, temperature cycling and the occasional rain.

No rust so the base coat is still in place. Not sure what the cause is. The vehicle is a '91 so the paint job has prolly just reached its life expectancy. Keeping in mind the protection is given by the clear coat.

I might wash it on the weekend and take some photos and see what you think.

I don't really need it to be a show pony, but faded paint looks untidy when parking at work and makes the car look old. Well it is old, but I'd rather it looked well maintained. I'm an engineer, so being able to fix things is to some extent a matter of pride. Also seen by some as a character flaw ;-)

Stevie-Ray
06-02-13, 12:40 AM
Been watching a few episodes of 'Dream Car Garage' on 7Mate & was surprised to learn that most European makers have been using BASF's water-based paints on their vehicles for a few yrs now, most other manufacturers around the world are switching over or planning to. While the clearcoats are still solvent-based they are formulated differently to contain less hydrocarbons & solvents. Only drawback is the need for dust-free booths & absolutely well-prepared & cleaned surfaces, & the need for thicker clearcoats to protect the base-coat. Something new I learnt this week! :D

Steve :rolleyes:

AndyNH91
09-02-13, 05:10 PM
Yeah, the roof is a lot worse than I had previously thought. It's largely out of sight, but it may require attention sooner than I thought.

Bobbit
09-02-13, 06:38 PM
Looking at the picture of the roof, it'll need a respray.
Same thing with the top of my other vehicle they (Previous owner/dodgy dealer) decided to cheap out and use acrylic base coat and then put 2pac on top (Or was it the other way around.. i cant remember at the moment) and after a while if it gets small cracks or if it gets a hole it just starts to peel like that.