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View Full Version : 1995 Pajero 2.8lt turbo diesel help required.


chrissys4
02-07-08, 10:45 AM
:help[1]:

I have a 1995 Pajero 2.8lt turbo diesel and the motor has a bearing on the crank shaft that required to be replaced I know that this is a re-build.

I have Five options at this point. :dunno[1]:

1) Find a replacement motor (Can you help) from a damaged Pajero where ever.

2) Purchase a 1995 Pajero with the same size motor.

3) Have my motor re-built at great expense.

4) Purchase a ex-change motor also at great expense

5) Sell my Pajero as is with the motor not working.

Can anyone recommend any of the above scenarios as I am anxious to get back on the off beaten road again? :drive[1]:

I can be contacted on 0432-681-300 or my home phone number is 03-9743-7494.

Ranger J
02-07-08, 02:59 PM
:help[1]:

I have a 1995 Pajero 2.8lt turbo diesel and the motor has a bearing on the crank shaft that required to be replaced I know that this is a re-build.

I have Five options at this point. :dunno[1]:

1) Find a replacement motor (Can you help) from a damaged Pajero where ever.

2) Purchase a 1995 Pajero with the same size motor.

3) Have my motor re-built at great expense.

4) Purchase a ex-change motor also at great expense

5) Sell my Pajero as is with the motor not working.

Can anyone recommend any of the above scenarios as I am anxious to get back on the off beaten road again? :drive[1]:

I can be contacted on 0432-681-300 or my home phone number is 03-9743-7494.

Cheapest option I would think is to get hold of an reputable Jap importer and get your hands on a low km 4M40 from a front cut delica/pajero. This is what I would be doing, I know a guy over West here upgraded his non-turbo 2.8 to a 4M40 in his triton and bought the engine for a couple of k, did most of the work himself. Just a case of pulling out, and dropping back in.

Rebuilding is an exxy option in my opinion. Whilst the 4M40 is a great little engine, its not a 1HZ or TD42 where you know that if you rebuild it, it will probably outlast the body or chassis itself.

Hope this helps somewhat.

Jaydee
02-07-08, 08:58 PM
I rebuilt mine 4M40T last christmas because Mits. f....'d up with the head design which caused cracks that allowed water to slowly corrode the bores until the whole lot let go... but she didn't let me down... limped home using heaps of water. This is all at 173000km. Yeah I wrote to Mits. and the f....its replied with usual "we can't help you... terribly sorry but your issue has been noted"...anyway... I'm so happy with the rebuild. Know my little motor backwards now, that hooking into it something's not going to break and if I need it will turn to 4200rpm in 5th (150km/hr) for short bursts. I don't understand why it turns so quick... thought the fan would drag and pull it back but... does what it does I guess.

Cost me about 6g but this is a brand new motor built right not some friday factory motor. That cost includes new pistons, the bores sleeved and bored to 20 over, new head, new cam, new bearings, injection pump rebuilt, injectors, water pump, new transmission clutch, new fan clutch. The balance shafts, the oil pump, block, sump are the only carry overs. I assembled it myself but contracted out the machining. I enjoyed it the quiet hours in the shed assembling it and of course when it rumbled into life... yeah... made it worth it. Hasn't missed a beat since.



In the beginning I panicked and thought exchange and second hand but one thing I kept coming back to... I spend $4200 on an import motor (80,000km) or second hand(god knows km)... and what's to say 2 yrs down the track it cracks the head, spins a bottom bearing, drops it's lunch with a valve falling out of the head or someone's boiled it then crashed the vehicle to get the insurance money. I just couldn't be sure so I rebuilt ruins.

I even thought about being clever and buying a non turbo 4M40 (way cheaper)and bolting on my turbo and injection... then I rechecked the spec sheet... the -T has additional cooling... and my luck... I'd probably blow it to bits. $3800 gone.





One other note... you could change the conrod bearings insitu... however to get the sump off you need to undo the diff support and drop the diff down, undo the sump and slide it back a bit, undo the oil pick up then the sump comes off.
But if it's mains... the base plate weighs heaps and definately an engine out job... 25kg at least.

I hope my viewpoint gives you some help...