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Is this a tie rod end?

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  • Tin Man
    Member
    • Sep 2009
    • 90
    • Brisbane

    Is this a tie rod end?

    Hello all,

    Been reading through a few threads about tie rod ends, and there seems to be a bit of confusion about what the bloody thing is - myself included.

    Sounds like this (picture below) is what we're talking about... but can someone who actually knows for sure confirm?

    And while we're on the subject - how much play, if any, should there be?
    I can grab the centre section and rotate it about an 1/8th of a turn. Is that supposed to happen or does that mean it needs replacing?

    Cheers
    Attached Files
    1998 NL Pajero GLS, Petrol, Auto, LSD, bog standard (for now), 265/70R16 Maxxis Bravo 751 A/T, Outback Ideas Bush Hook - 10,000lbs
  • spiezzy
    Member
    • Nov 2010
    • 144
    • helensburgh

    #2
    yep you would be correct this is the tie rod end
    it will turn on its ball a bit but so long as there is no play in the ball joint it self it should be fine and the centre nut where the arrow is pointing should be not loose this is where they do wheel alignments adjustments
    hope this helps
    cheers
    pete

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    • nj swb
      Resident
      • Jun 2007
      • 7332
      • Adelaide

      #3
      Originally posted by Tin Man View Post
      Hello all,

      Been reading through a few threads about tie rod ends, and there seems to be a bit of confusion about what the bloody thing is - myself included.

      Sounds like this (picture below) is what we're talking about... but can someone who actually knows for sure confirm?

      And while we're on the subject - how much play, if any, should there be?
      I can grab the centre section and rotate it about an 1/8th of a turn. Is that supposed to happen or does that mean it needs replacing?

      Cheers
      That is what I would call a tie rod, and I would call the bit on each end (with male thread & ball joint) a tie rod end. But I could be wrong (again).

      Yes, it will rotate about it's centre axis, because there's a ball joint on each end. If it is ONLY rotational movement, it's not problem. Any lateral movement (along the axis, or perpendicular to the axis at either end) is a problem - probably a worn ball joint, although it could be that the ball joint taper is loose. Either way, best bet would be to replace any loose ball joints.
      NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

      Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

      Scorpro Explorer Box

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      • goldnugget
        Senior Member
        • Jan 2011
        • 348
        • Qld

        #4
        The part you are pointing to actually consists of 3 parts plus 2 nuts.
        The part the arrow is directly pointing to is your tie rod joiner (I just replaced mine due to a..cough....incident).. this part has internal threads that the other two parts (inner tie rod end and outer tie rod end) screw into...it has opposing threads on each side. You will notice two nuts immediately either side to the joiner (almost looks as though they are part of the joiner), these are set on each tie rod end and are locking nuts.
        If you need to remove either of the 2 tie rod ends..back off these nuts a turn or two (keep in mind, opposite thread each side), then (with a wheel off the ground on which ever side you are doing), you will be able to either tighten or loosen the joiner (this is used to adjust toe in and toe out when re-aligning your steering). If you keep loosening the joiner right off, each tie rod will then come off the joiner, change the tie rod end that needs replacing (get a new nut too), using your old tie rod as a guide, set the new nut in the same spot (I set mine before I installed the new one side to side with the old one on the bench), then carefully bring the two tie rods to the joiner again and carefully thread it back on to BOTH tie rods at the same time..when you get up to the same spot that it was sitting at (remember we set the nut), tighten the two locking nuts and thats it. The only other thing is to make sure you put the new split pins that are supplied with the tie rod end.
        Now ..... the outer tie rod end is the one closest to the wheel, then the joiner, then the inner tie rod end (under the engine). Tie rod ends are available from most parts supply places..I replaced an inner in the last week or so at a cost of around $35 (cant remember exactly), but much cheaper than from the dealer ($170?)...however the joiner is only available from dealer (I got my nut from the dealer as well $2.70?)..make sure it is to suit either inner or outer T.R.E. (opposite threads...remember).
        Sorry if I jumped the gun as far as why you wanted to know...but you now have the heads up anyway.
        Jay
        PS, it will move a little while it is in position...but keep an ear out for any rattles at the front (not necesarily felt through the steering) when driving along an uneven stretch of road, or if you notice a sort of buckling feeling in the steering when going around bends and corners.
        Also FYI, my thread here on my experience with a T.R.E. http://140.99.20.180/forum/showthread.php?t=15128
        Last edited by goldnugget; 13-02-11, 06:31 PM. Reason: Added to

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