alignment issues

[lugzy]

i went for wheels laser alignment. cant be done cuz the camber is not aligned and cant be.

searched the forum and could find that shims can solve the issue. went to the alignment again with the new idea, but they refused to do it and insisted that its mechanic work. i couldn't find any mechanic who can resolve this issue.

should i go to mitsubishi?!!

[damo1]

Have you cranked your torsionbars??

Because if you have from what ive read you will only get it close never spot on.

But if you do a ball joint flip it's apparently a way of bringing it back into spec's.

I could be wrong but thats what i have made out of what id read.

I personally had a negitive camber issue after doing my t/b crank and it was noticable to see , so i removed all the shims over the week end and it looks sweet now and doesn't have the knocked knee loom anymore.

[lugzy]

Have you cranked your torsionbars??

Because if you have from what ive read you will only get it close never spot on.

But if you do a ball joint flip it's apparently a way of bringing it back into spec's.

I could be wrong but thats what i have made out of what id read.

I personally had a negitive camber issue after doing my t/b crank and it was noticable to see , so i removed all the shims over the week end and it looks sweet now and doesn't have the knocked knee loom anymore.

the only thing that ive done is changing steering outer ball joints, then i went for alignment.
BTW: i hear noise while steering and while going over humps. is it related, or its the suspension ?

cheers.

[sprintman]

A proper suspension shop will do whatever is required. A 'wheel aligner' at a tyre shop won't.

[MightyMits]

A proper suspension shop will do whatever is required. A 'wheel aligner' at a tyre shop won't.

I have to completely disagree with sprintman, while there are some tyre shops that dont have the correct allignment machines or dont have the required skills to do a full allignment, i work at Tyre Plus, a tyre and mechanical tyre store, and we do full alignments, front and rear (If it has adjustment in the rear) and if the camber needs correcting, weather it be shimms or kin pin adjustment, we can do it. It sounds like the tyre shop you went to either didnt have the skills to do a full alignment or just couldnt be bothered to do it.

I personally had a negitive camber issue after doing my t/b crank and it was noticable to see , so i removed all the shims over the week end and it looks sweet now and doesn't have the knocked knee loom anymore.

Removing all shims may reduce negative camber, but may also move the caster readings, which can cause a pull one way while driving.

[damo1]

Removing all shims may reduce negative camber, but may also move the caster readings, which can cause a pull one way while driving.

I removed them to rectify my pulling to one side issue- as a result of the serveer negitive camber after my torsion bar crank.

It fixed my problem no more pulling to one side.

It could only effect castor if you removed only the front or only the rear shims on the same arm.
This would then push your arm forward or backwards depending which ones were taken out.
By removing both shims equaly it just moves the top of the arm out equaly so shouldnt effect castor.

[lugzy]

I went for alignment again to adjust the toe-in and to know the camber deflection angle. both toe-in are 0.9 while the camber is -1.1 on driver side and 0.0 on the other side. caster is 0.4 on both sides.
i checked workshop manual to know the shims size that i need to add/remove. but i dont know why the chart says " if you want to decrease camber then you have to add shims"!!

according to the chart i have to (add/remove) 2X 4mm shims to get camber from -1.1 to about 0.0

can someone explain!