grease

[whitehillbillies]

Bought some after market free wheeling hubs for my 98 Challenger.
Pulled them apart, but they seem to lack grease.
What grease is recommended for redoing them ????
I was thinking of smearing contacting parts, with a no melt wheel bearing grease.
I also have a spray can of lithium grease.
Which would be best to use ????
Thanks for your comments

Whitehillbillies

[Gen3]

i use boat trailer grease in mine , reasoning is that being a bit exposed something waterproof will be best.

i love FWHs , they reduce running costs on the front driveline to almost zero ,

[whitehillbillies]

Thanks Gen3,
Is it correct the internal parts should be just smeared in grease, or should the hub be packed lightly with grease ????

whitehillbillies

[davecambo]

what is the benefit of doing this? does this change how you engage 4wd?

[Pauly Faulkner]

Use silicone grease if you can, I have used cv grease in the past with no issues also.

The internals just need a good coating in grease, no need to pack it like a wheel bearing as it will just make it harder to engage/disengage.

[Gen3]

just give the internals a coat , as PF suggested , especially the splines at the end of the CV

[whitehillbillies]

Picked up a tube of INOX-mx6, which the boys from the local auto shop use for there Free Wheeling hubs.
Thanks for all the replies, and advice.

whitehillbillies

[whitehillbillies]

Pulled front wheel hubs apart today. Some water had got into the grease.
After a clean up, the bearings looked fine, so repacked, the wheel bearings and put in new hub oil seals, as the driver side one had been leaking grease, onto the backing plate.
Checked the brake pads, greased the slider pins, before re assembling everything, then put on the Aisin copy, Chinese, YIJIA free wheeling hubs, after spending an hour this morning pulling them apart, cleaning and re greasing with a smear over contacting parts, with INOX-mx6
Used the two original shims before putting on the 'c' clip. Only slight free play on the drive shaft, with the Free wheeling hub backing plate fitted.
Put on the outer part of the F/W hub and checked it turning, from free to lock and back. The outer M6 bolts being fitted with a small drop of thread lock, before being tightened
A quick trip down the road and back, and all works great.
I put a slight chamfer on the inner and outer edge of the brake pads so even the squeak when the brakes are applied is gone.
Thanks for all the input from forum members,

whitehillbillies

[Gen3]

you mean you put threadlocker on the little cone shaped allen head bolts ? i wouldnt do that if you strip the allen head you will never get them out again , and need to destroy the hub to remove it.
i put some grease on them tighten them up then back them off a fraction , to avoid them seizing in there.

[whitehillbillies]

Gen3,
These lockers have 6, 10mm head, M6 bolts, and. I only put a very small smear, of thread locker on. With smaller bolts/screws I usually turn the bottle upside down, allow thread locker to appear. Up right the bottle then just wipe a couple of lower threads in one spot.
Thanks for the heads up





Whitehillbillies

[whitehillbillies]

[whitehillbillies]

Sorry, forgot to resize.

whitehillbillies

[Pauly Faulkner]

Gen3 was thinking off the AVM style hubs that have an allen key/torx bit head outer bolts. Those ones need a little grease or never seize on them.

[Bogger]

Never sieze on either as in any steel to alloy thread add a bit of moisture and nature will create it's own bond I'd love a dollar for how many I've cut off in the past years or had to repair for broken bolts
The bolts carry no load they simply have to hold the two mating faces together so no need to be super tight.
The AVM type especially as has been said as they use a taper with a very small allen head that allows very little purchase for key.

[whitehillbillies]

I was surprised to see the AVM' s are made in China.
But at the price, I guess not!!!
thought you were talking about the small AVM screw, so posted the OVERSIZED pic.

whitehillbillies